A little slice of paradise
Well at last I’ve found a place that for me comes close to perfection; sadly it’s a very long way away in Galle (rhymes with Youghal) in southern Sri Lanka at The Dutch House – so named because it was an admiral’s palace built during the Dutch occupation of the island in the 18th century.
The beautifully proportioned classic bungalow is built around three sides of a square with wide verandas overlooking the croquet lawn. After hours of travelling it was balm to the soul to arrive in this haven of sophistication and gracious living. There are just four beautiful bedrooms, each with a peaceful sitting room and lovely bathroom – an elegant marriage of antique and modern. No flat screen TVs, mini bar or tea makers here.
The owner, Geoffrey Dobbs, is a bit of a legend, not just in Galle but in Sri Lanka as a whole. Whenever his name was mentioned, everyone from tuc-tuc drivers to ex pats (of whom there are many) told us about his contribution to Sri Lankan tourism, the success of the Galle Literary and Film Festivals, which he founded, and Adopt Sri Lanka, a charity he instigated after the tsunami.
He is an accidental hotelier. Originally he was a trader in Hong Kong, who like so many others was seduced by Sri Lanka when he first came on holidays in 1992. He arrived with his then girlfriend and left a couple of weeks later, minus the girlfriend but having bought the island of Taprobane.
The tiny tear-shaped island with just one beautiful neo-Palladian house perched on top was originally built in 1927 for the bohemian Count de Mauny-Talvande. It is a mere 200 yards off the shore, like an improbable mirage which can only be accessed by wading through the warm shallow surf of Weligama Bay. It’s just a few miles along the coast from Koggala, where the famous stick fishermen perch precariously on poles firmly embedded in the sand to catch their fish.
According to Geoffrey, buying Taprobane fulfilled innumerable fantasies of his childhood and now helps him to escape from the tyranny of modern living. At first he regarded his purchase as a ‘hobby island’ but was soon persuaded to ‘let it’ to friends. Further temptations soon came his way. He found a gracious old villa, Sun House, built for a Scottish spice merchant in Galle. The Dutch House just across the road also proved irresistible and in 1997 he added the Beach House at Tangalla to his collection. The latter has been described by Tatler as “the best beach house on Earth”.
The four properties defy the usual definitions and are best described as a cluster of guesthouses under the same management. Somehow, Geoffrey has managed to create an atmosphere where guests feel instantly comfortable and relaxed. He is adamant that he doesn’t employ anyone from the hotel school, saying “the best training is learn on the job from someone who doesn’t have anything to prove”. Geoffrey’s guests are travellers rather than tourists.
Sri Lanka, off the toe of India, is virtually the same size as Ireland but has a population of 21 million. The south coast was particularly badly affected by the St Stephen’s Day tsunami in 2004. In just 10 minutes over 200,000 people perished. Six years on, the area has recovered well and has a renewed appreciation of the importance of coastal vegetation, coral, sand dunes, mangroves, beach grass and plants as a barrier against natural seaborne threats.
The food in both the Dutch House and the Sun House was truly delicious. I spent some time in the kitchen with the chefs and found lots of recipes that I can reproduce at home – I can’t wait to go back to learn more.
In Sri Lanka this curry is served with stringhoppers, but it’s also good with rice.
Serves 4 – 6
500g (18oz) pumpkin, cut into 1 inch cubes
½ tsp turmeric
1 tsp chilli powder
1 dstsp curry powder
1 inch cinnamon stick
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
400ml (14fl oz) thick coconut milk
Put the chopped pumpkin (1 inch cubes/ 500g) into a bowl. Add ½ tsp turmeric, one teaspoon chilli powder, one dessert spoon curry powder, 1 inch cinnamon stick and ½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds. Toss well then add 8fl oz thick coconut milk and stir around in a bowl.
Put a wok on a medium heat, add pumpkin, mix then cook on medium heat for 25 minutes. Stir occasionally, add a further 6 fl oz coconut milk and cook for another 5 minutes. Serve with rice and string hoppers if you live in Sri Lanka.
Rick Stein who visited a few years ago was also ‘blown away’ by Shanta’s food at the Sun House. Who would have thought of making curry from beetroot?
Serves 6 approx
2 tbsp sunflower oil
3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
2 sprigs of fresh curry leaves
1 large red onion sliced (110-150g) (4-5oz)
500g (18oz) beetroot (cut into 1/8-inch julienne)
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp curry powder
1 tsp freshly ground coriander
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp salt
150ml /5 fl oz/ 1/4 pint thick coconut milk
Heat two tablespoons of oil in a sauce pan over a medium heat, add the garlic, stir add the curry leaves and sliced onion and the beetroot, Cook for a minute or two.
Add one teaspoon curry powder, coriander, cumin, fenugreek, black mustard seeds. Stir over a medium heat, add ½ teaspoon salt.
Cook for approximately 15 minutes, or until tender. Add 2/3 cup coconut milk and cook on a low heat for further 10 minutes until tender.
Taste and correct the seasoning. Serve with rice.
I was deeply sceptical about garlic curry, but Geoffrey insisted I should learn how to make it. It was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten, worth growing garlic for.
Serves 4 – 6
1 kg/2¼lb of fresh garlic, peeled
2 tbsp of sunflower oil
1 sliced red onion
3 sprigs of fresh curry leaves
1 heaped tsp of curry powder
1 heaped tsp of chilli powder
1 small tsp of turmeric
3 chillies sliced (leave the seeds in)
725ml (24 fl oz) coconut milk
1 tsp salt
Heat two tablespoons of sunflower oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add one sliced red onion, and the leaves of fresh curry sprigs. Stir and cook over medium heat until beginning to brown for 7-8 minutes. Add one heaped teaspoon of curry powder, one heaped teaspoon of chilli powder, and one small teaspoon of turmeric, stir and then add three sliced chillies.
Cook for one to two minutes. Add 15fl oz coconut milk. Bring to the boil then add the kg of fresh, peeled garlic. Cook for approx 15 minutes on medium heat. Add one teaspoon salt to taste; continue to cook on a low heat for a further 10 minutes. Add another 8fl oz coconut milk and continue to cook for about 30 minutes or until the garlic is fully cooked and deliciously tender.
Shanta, who taught me this particularly delicious and comforting dahl recipe, has been the chef at The Sun House in Galle for over 10 years. He has a wonderful repertoire of recipes, many of which he shared with me. Mr Bell at the English market in Cork sometimes has fresh curry leaves as does the Asia market in Dublin. Freeze some as a stand by when you can get them, otherwise use dried.
Serves 4 to 6
250g (9oz) orange lentils
2 tbsp sunflower oil
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
1 large red onion, sliced (110-150g) (approx 4-5oz)
2 sprigs fresh curry leaves
1 heaped dstsp raw curry powder *
1 large tsp turmeric
1 tsp chilli powder
1 cinnamon stick
250ml (8fl oz) thin coconut milk
125ml (4fl oz) thick coconut milk
Wash the lentils for a couple of minutes in cold water. Drain. Heat 2 tablespoons of sunflower oil in a saucepan over a medium heat, add the chopped garlic, cook and stir for two to three minutes. Then add the curry leaves, 1 heaped dessertspoon raw curry powder, one large teaspoon chilli powder and the cinnamon stick. Cook and stir over the heat for two to three minutes. Add 8fl oz thin coconut milk, stir and add the orange lentils (If making with black lentils, soak them over night). Bring to the boil and cook for five minutes, it will be quite thick. Add 8 fl oz water, stir and bring to the boil again. Cook for about ten minutes on a medium heat. Add ½ teaspoon salt and 4fl oz thick coconut milk. Bring to the boil and cook until the lentils are just cooked but still have a little bite. Taste and correct seasoning. Serve as part of a Sri Lankan supper.
*In Sri Lanka they differentiate between raw and roasted curry powder.
Pineapples are abundant in Sri Lanka and in season all year round.
1 large under-ripe pineapple, cut into large cubes
2 tbsp sunflower oil
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 sliced red onion
3 sprigs of fresh curry leaves
2 scant tbsp roasted curry powder
200ml /7 fl oz thin coconut milk
1 well rounded tsp of salt
1 cinnamon stick
Peel the pineapple and cut into large dice – about 1 inch.
Heat a wok over a medium heat. Add two tablespoons sunflower oil, chopped garlic, red onion and the leaves from the three fresh curry leaf sprigs.
Cook for 2-3 minutes or until golden brown, add two heaped dessertspoons roasted curry powder.
Add the thin coconut milk and one well-rounded teaspoon of salt and one cinnamon stick. Bring to boil.
Add the cubes of pineapple and one teaspoon salt. Stir, toss and cook on medium heat for 20 minutes approx or until tender.
Serve with rice.
- WHEN Isabelle Sheridan established On the Pigs Back as a shared stall in the historic Old English Market in Cork city in 1992, charcuterie and farm-house cheeses were a niche market – well they are definitely part of the main stream now.
The stall flourished and gathered a cult following.
Isabelle’s latest venture is a new café in Douglas, launched last week and is already booming.
Check it out: On the Pig’s Back, Unit 26, St Patrick’s Mills, Douglas, Cork. 021 4617832.
- The historic village of Cloyne is fast becoming a vibrant town with lots of exciting developments. Cloyne Farmers market was recently launched by Rachel Allen and Richard Corrigan.
All producers come from within a 10 mile radius of Cloyne, with beautiful fresh local produce.
Contact: James Long 086 8506170
- Coeliacs and those with gluten intolerance find both the Coeliac Society of Ireland and Coeliac UK an enormous support.
The 2010 Coeliac Food and Drink directory arrived in the post recently and list approximately 10,000 suitable products. They also provide members with monthly updates via the website:
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