Sally Foran: These are the best retinol alternatives for sensitive skin
There are plenty of non-irritating skincare ingredients that you can use for similar results.
Retinol has long been celebrated as a gold standard in skincare, renowned for its ability to promote cell turnover, reduce fine lines, help acne and brighten skin. Unfortunately, however, not everyone can tolerate it.
You might have heard the term ‘retinol uglies’, which refers to a temporary but common adjustment phase which can occur when starting retinoids, marked by dryness, peeling, redness, and purging. For some, this period is frustrating but passes without major issue, while for others, that irritation, redness, and increased sensitivity, can occur to the point where it is no longer feasible to continue using retinol.
Thankfully, if you have sensitive or reactive skin, are pregnant or breastfeeding, there are other non-irritating skincare ingredients that you can use for similar results. From peptides that enhance collagen production, resveratrol that also doubles up as an antioxidant, to plant-based alternatives like rosehip oil and bakuchiol. Here are some of my favourites.
This natural plant-based alternative to retinol, native to eastern Asia, has soared to cult skincare status in the past few years. Due to the increase in people seeking gentler approaches to skincare and also a higher demand for plant based skincare ingredients, it has exploded in popularity. Though it doesn’t have the same make up, in fact structurally it’s more similar to another anti ageing antioxidant — resveratrol (more on this below) the results are remarkably similar.
It’s clinically proven, a recent study in the British Journal of Dermatology found that it decreased fine lines and pigmentation at the same rate as retinol. Just like retinol, Bakuchiol works by increasing cell turnover, thereby increasing collagen production, diminishing pigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, texture, pores, uneven skin tone but without the dryness or irritation thanks to its anti inflammatory properties, making it ideal for dry or sensitive skin types. It’s also especially suitable for acne, due to not only being anti inflammatory, but also anti bacterial. Perfect for those seeking a gentle, vegan friendly solution.
- Try it: The Inkey List Bakuchiol, Millies, €16.50
The bad news is that collagen production slows as we age, but the good news is that incorporating peptides into your skincare routine helps boost collagen production. Although lesser known than retinol, Peptides are a versatile, youth-renewing powerhouse ingredient. They’re short chains of amino acids that serve as essential building blocks for proteins like collagen and elastin, boosting their production and vital for maintaining youthful, resilient skin. They help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines, dullness and promote firmness and elasticity. They also support the skin’s barrier and hydrate deeply.
Consistent use of peptides has been proven in several double blind clinical trials to result in firmer, smoother, radiant and less wrinkled skin, offering a powerful yet soothing approach to skin rejuvenation.
There are hundreds of different peptides, but they generally fall into three main groups. Signalling peptides boost collagen production for firmer, plumper skin (e.g. Matrixyl). Carrier peptides help calm inflammation and support the skin barrier (e.g. copper tripeptide-1), and neurotransmitter peptides, often described as “Botox-like”, work by reducing nerve-to-muscle signalling to soften expression lines (e.g. Argireline).
- Try it: No7 Future Renew Neck & Décolletage Serum, €54.99, Boots
Often dubbed natures answer to retinol, rosehip oil is derived from the seeds of wild rose bushes, and is a nutrient rich natural alternative to retinol. It contains essential fatty acids, three and six which give a natural boost to the regeneration of skin cells and it contains natural vitamin A precursors that support skin renewal.
As well as these it’s packed with vitamins C and E, all celebrated for their ability to regenerate skin cells, repair damaged skin, hydrate, improve tone, and visibly reduce scars and fine lines and wrinkles.
Vitamin A also targets sun damage and hyperpigmentation and it’s anti-inflammatory properties help calm redness and soothe sensitive skin. It’s another excellent choice for those seeking a plant based solution to address ageing skin and it also helps treat skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and acne.
As it’s a very dry, thin oil, it’s non congesting, making it ideal not just for blemish prone skin types, but those who prefer a lighter oil. Another benefit is it can be rubbed into dry and irritated scalps to reduce flakes and promote healthy follicles.
- Try it: Trilogy Rosehip oil, Cloud10 Beauty, €39
This has a multitude of benefits for skin, as well as providing similar benefits to retinol, it’s also an antioxidant, so like all antioxidants, it helps neutralise free radicals that cause premature ageing. It has many benefits for skin health including – smooths lines and wrinkles, improves skins elasticity, calms inflammation, brightens skin and prevents discolouration, as it inhibits the enzyme tyrosine, which causes pigmentation. Like all antioxidants, it’s best applied in the morning and always pair it with your sun protection, as when used together, they supercharge the effects of your spf.
- Try it: Caudalíe Resveratrol, Space NK, €54
- Product prices correct at time of print but subjact to change
- Sally recently worked with Boots on its No 7 Future Renew launch
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