These are the four key trends we will be wearing later this year, according to NY Fashion Week
Highlights from New York Fashion Week
Just when you thought it was safe to remove a layer and enjoy spring-adjacent styles, the international catwalks kick off their autumn/winter 24 previews.
A renewed focus on heritage sees designers exploring leather through the lens of legacy and craftsmanship.
Coach built upon the archetypal codes of luxury through the eyes of today’s New York with louche leather trenches and shearling jackets, while Ludovic De Saint Sernin approached the city’s cultural footprint with audacious leather bondage-style dresses and cinched full-length coats.
Inspired by a personal legacy (the memories of her mother), Khaite’s creative director Cate Holstein contrasted cropped and sculptural leather jackets with deconstructed draping.
The result? The anatomy of a “look” from New York’s coolest cult label.
Did you hear the news? Quiet luxury has reportedly been cancelled. The beige backlash began with Christian Siriano, who gave glamour a post-apocalyptic reboot.
Think glossy evening dresses with impressive couture flourishes in well-dressed shades of burnt orange and spicy red.
Naeem Khan’s ombré paillette confections and dramatic flamenco ruffles held similar A-lister sway, while Prabal Gurung’s visually arresting homage to his native Nepal deserved its own red carpet.
Prepare, though, as Tory Burch’s tinsel dresses and glorious sequined fringe coats become the stuff of Christmas waitlists and Instagram brags.
For every ruffle and frill, there’s an uncompromising pleat that evens the score. Rigorous in its deference to utility, the architectural accent leaves no room for nuance. You either like it or you don’t.
Fall’s lineup has proven, however, this is not always the case. Take Ulla Johnson’s gold pleated top and layered skirt — a masterclass in fluidity, warmth, and ease. Or Wes Gordon, who used vertical pleats to create Carolina Herrara’s voluminous sleeves, proving discipline can be dramatic.
Likewise, Altuzarra kept pleats low-key — in line with the brand’s intimate salon-style presentation — rendering sharp edges in languid leather skirting. And who didn’t fall for Anna Sui’s ode to Miss Marple, concealing knife-edge fabric folds in its cosy cosplay?
Long shorts in winter? Whispers of the trend were heard last month in Copenhagen, courtesy of colourful Danish brands Baum und Pferdgarten and Saks Potts.
Meanwhile, in New York, options ran the gamut from polished to progressive.
Carolina Herrera’s Upper East Side sensibility found expression in knee-length tweed, matching flats, and a polished white shirt.
Michael Kors’ immaculately tailored short suits, on the other hand, invigorated played-out corporate dress codes. The memo? Dress up every day.
For something more playful, try Tibi’s slouchy Bermuda offering — unexpected when styled with the brand’s matching blazer and TikTok-approved rib sock flats, or with an elevated top and patent pointy boots. The choice is yours.
It was anyone’s game. With legacy names like Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein taking a catwalk pause, not to mention Marc Jacobs showing earlier and off-calendar, there was much speculation about how the season would shape up.
Debuts and homecomings added to the intrigue, like Peter Do’s anticipated second collection for Helmut Lang, Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s titular label launch, and Thom Browne returning to his roots for the finale show.
In between were New York fashion moments: Tommy Hilfiger’s celebration of “Classic American Cool” at Grand Central Station’s Oyster Bar, while Tory Burch marking 20 years in the business at Midtown’s New York Public Library stood out.
Familiar FROW faces kept the shutterbugs busy with Cork native and editor-in-chief of US Glamour magazine, Samantha Barry, spotted at Coach; singer and tour-de-force Beyoncé at Luar; and Molly Ringwald at Helmut Lang.
As for big fashion energy? You can thank Michael Kors for that. Giving sartorial staples the MK glow-up with sequins, feathers, and fur at a celebrity-packed show in Barney’s original flagship — the result was simply magic. Look out for autumn’s top-handle bags.
- Brown, grey, and red still hold stylish sway, whether Gabriela Hearst’s surrealist-inspired separates, sci-fi glamour at Christian Siriano or Michael Kors’ restructuring of corporate chic.
- The waist continues to have its moment, especially in denim iterations as seen at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Carolina Herrera doesn’t disappoint with her Upper East Side twist on the skirted trouser trend.
- The Ivy League aesthetic stays top of the class with “Classic American Cool”, thanks to Tommy Hilfiger. Expect varsity jackets, polo shirts, slouch knits, and dapper tweeds. Altuzarra’s less literal interpretation wins big for the fans of furloughed quiet luxury.
- Sheer confections defy fickle trend cycles and errant weather patterns. For fall, pair your spring skirt with a playful double-faced fringed wool sweater as seen at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Need more coverage? Layer a diaphanous dress over leggings.
- Celebrating its 40th anniversary with a schedule featuring Irish designers, Paul Costelloe, JW Anderson, Simone Rocha, Sinead O’Dwyer, and Robyn Lynch.
- Expect sophomore collections from Gucci’s Sabato de Sarno and Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford. Marni makes a comeback.
- Irish designer Seán McGirr showcases his hotly tipped debut collection for Alexander McQueen.
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