The Skin Nerd: How to tackle post-chocolate spots

The hero ingredients you should keep in your blemish toolkit.

Tue, 06 Apr, 2021 - 20:00

Jennifer Rock - @TheSkinNerd

Indulging in chocolate this Easter weekend might potentially lead to a few pimples popping up. No judgement here, ‘tis the season for choccy eggs. The culprit? The high sugar content that’s often lurking in cheap chocolate and processed foods.

Let’s start with how spots form. A blemish is the result of dead skin cells mixing with the sebum (aka oil) that’s secreted by our sebaceous glands in the dermis, the second layer of skin. The amount of oil that’s produced by our sebaceous glands is influenced by androgens, our sex hormones.

A direct correlation between chocolate and acne hasn’t been determined but a study by the Medical University of Warsaw found that chocolate influenced an increase in insulin and glucose (aka sugar) levels in the bloodstream. Ramped up glucose and insulin levels can stimulate androgen synthesis, which annoyingly, could equal oiliness galore and a breakout in acne-prone hoomans.

Now swaying you from a delicious Easter diet of hot cross buns, chocolate-covered cornflakes, and chocolate eggs is not my intention. It is fine to consume these foods in moderation – so, you best believe I’ll be scoffing a treat (or three!) over the next few days.

Instead, let’s be prepared for the spots that might make a cameo as a result. In my opinion, there are a few hero ingredients that are well-deserving of a “spot” in your blemish toolkit.

First off, salicylic acid. It’s a beta-hydroxy acid (aka BHA) that’s oil-soluble which is fabulous for oily skin as it’ll penetrate deep into pores to dissolve sebum and debris. Salicylic acid is also an exfoliating acid which means it’ll loosen the bonds keeping dead skin cells attached to prevent pores from getting plugged.

Salicylic acid is a powerful active ingredient that should be introduced to your skin gently and slowly. I would choose a cleanser like the Environ Focus Care Clarity+ Sebu-Wash Gel Cleanser (€39, theskinnerd.com) and use it as a second cleanse every third evening. It contains salicylic acid, tea tree leaf oil which is antibacterial and an anti-inflammatory to speed up wound healing and glycerin to hydrate.

Secondly, I would always turn to hyaluronic acid. Thinking that oily or acne-prone skin doesn’t need hydration is a common skin misconception that I’m keen to debunk. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant which means it draws moisture from the atmosphere into the skin for top-notch hydration. It’s also a key component in wound healing which is crucial for making spots heal faster.

A serum is the best way to serve your skin hyaluronic acid and I’d recommend Skingredients Skin Veg (€45, theskinnerd.com). Naturally, hyaluronic acid is the star ingredient, but it also contains a polyhydroxy acid (aka PHA) which acts as a penetrant enhancer the skincare you apply after.

Finally, and this won’t come as a surprise to many, vitamin A. It increases the skin cell turnover rate to reduce dead skin cells getting clogged in pores and helps eradicate the pigmentation or dark marks that are often left behind once a spot heals.

Again, vitamin A isn’t an active ingredient you want to misuse as it can irritate the skin. The Environ Skin EssentiA Vita-Antioxidant AVST Moisturiser “step-up” range (from €57 theskinnerd.com) is perfect for slowly introducing your skin to vitamin A as it builds up a tolerance.

Let’s end on some good news. Some suggest that chowing down on chocolate isn’t all bad, if you’re consuming dark chocolate with over 70% cocoa content that is. So, splash out on the good stuff this Easter!

The Nerdie Pick

The IMAGE Clear Cell Clarifying Acne Masque is a smart choice when you’re experiencing a few sugar-related breakouts. I’d pop it on double cleansed skin for no longer than 10-minutes, 5-minutes for darker-skinned hoomans.

The kaolin clay face mask is laced with a 5% blend of salicylic and glycolic acid to cut through sebum (aka oil) and dissolve the debris in pores, as dead skin cells are gently lifted away. It also contains hyaluronic acid to hydrate and a botanical complex containing a patented antimicrobial peptide to help heal existing spots.