Paul McLauchlan: Chanel makes a case for make-up for men
Makeup for men? Yes, really.
If any brand could convince a man to buy makeup it would be Chanel. The French fashion and beauty giant is one of the most influential brands in the world. From their signature bouclé tailoring to the late, great Karl Lagerfeld who helped shape Chanel’s public image, their beauty division now comes with makeup for men. Yes, really.
Men often write makeup off as solely for their female counterparts. What use do we have for foundation or concealer? What use do we have for eyebrow pencils or nail varnish?
In 2020, however, the male cosmetics industry is blossoming with a number of brands, both small and large, who market make-up for men. Perhaps owing to the shifting attitudes towards gender conventions, masculinity in its current guise is undergoing an overhaul at the hands of a younger generation who share their unabashed approach to individualism, identity and self-expression through online platforms like Instagram and Tiktok.
This is not Chanel’s first foray into makeup for men: in 2019, they launched a foundation, a lip balm, and a 2-in-1 (read: long-wear, waterproof) eyebrow pencil. This October sees the release of a gel moisturiser, concealer, 3-in-1 eyebrow pencil, and two nail varnishes in black and nude.
“If you’re new to makeup, my advice would be to start with something you are familiar and comfortable with and that is easy to apply,” says Thom Walker, a makeup artist for Chanel. He suggests starting with the Fortifying Gel Moisturiser which contains hyaluronic acid that will intensely hydrate and plump the skin.
I played around with the moisturiser which became a daily staple in my skincare regimen. Perfumed with a distinctly fresh, masculine scent that could easily be a cousin of Chanel’s widely known fragrance Bleu de Chanel. Post-shower it delivers enriching hydration to dull or dry skin.
While the moisturiser can be used in and of itself, it can also act as a suitable base for the BOY de CHANEL Foundation which arrived in Chanel’s first makeup for men launch last year. It comes in a broad range of shades, most of which would be perfect for the remnants of one’s lingering summer glow. The Chanel foundation is more suitable to warmer complexions as opposed to alabaster tones and I ended up being slightly too pale, though in small amounts covered any blemishes that arose.
For me, as a man who doesn’t wear makeup, the foundation was the hardest for me to get on board with. As a layer of colour washes over your face, one might confront a makeup faux pas.
Walker recommends finding a strong natural light source before applying. One should only apply a small amount with your fingertips to areas of imperfections, or to the entire face, and smooth it out until a lightweight coverage appears. With this in mind, the results can be fruitful.
“You really don’t need a lot of product to make your skin look brighter and more hydrated,” said Walker.
The BOY de CHANEL Concealer comes in a reliable, slimline tube with a glide-on matte formula that is easiest to control with one's fingertips. The soft formula reduces dark circles and, unlike women’s concealers, is without a shimmery finish.
Meanwhile, the 3-in-1 eyebrow pencil provides definition and colour to eyebrows in a host of shades. Out of all the products, I thought this one was the most effective in that it can provide a noticeable definition to our faces and it was the one thing that received the most compliments.
While it might be a simple task to convince Zoomers to buy makeup, what about the Boomers? Traditionally more conservative in their values, makeup for men is a tough sell. From a young age, men aren’t taught to toy with their identity in the way that women are. However, attitudes are shifting. More and more men are increasingly interested in taking care of their appearances beyond their traditional grooming and skincare routines.
“We’ve noticed a huge demand for male skincare over the past few years with a lot of cosmetic brands taking a gender neutral approach. It gives men the ability to feel confident in their own skin,” said Karen Higgins, head of beauty buying at Brown Thomas, where the Chanel line will be stocked.
Chanel’s line of makeup is by no means alienating. In fact, in comparison to other labels who specialise in coloured eye palettes and lipsticks, the range is approachable to the core. Moreover, they committed to making this exclusively for men, which in terms of optics, can soothe the egos of men who would rather not purchase a unisex product from a brand known for its service to women.
In any case, makeup is worth experimenting with. In the Zoom-era it can brighten up your face on-screen. Why not add a flourish to your appearance. If done correctly, you will achieve a subtle, natural finish. You might even find an admirer.
* Boy de CHANEL is available at Brown Thomas Dublin from October 9.
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