Product watch: Five top contouring tips

Contouring is still one of the biggest beauty trends around and every make-up artist has a different take on the sculpted look. Rachel Marie Walsh shares five of her favourite tips.

They say there is nothing new under the sun and this is often true of make-up trends.

Contouring (shading parts of the face in order to narrow the nose, round the eyes, elevate cheekbones, or define the jawline) has been around for decades.

Farrah’s cheeks were shaded in Tony Manero’s poster, as were a youthful Diane Von Furstenberg’s at Studio 54, and those of every memorable 80s pop tart.

The late Kevyn Aucoin, artist to the 90s supermodels, published four monographs that showcase the decade’s best contouring.

The make-up in the pictures is beautiful but can appear obvious by today’s standards because product formulation has so improved.

Blending is easier, colours are more skin-like, and creating a natural, professional look at home is entirely possible.

Texture

Before contouring became a Kardashi-craze, artists used stick foundations in a darker shade than a client’s base to create “authentic” shadows on the face. The huge range of contouring products now available can be confusing.

Celebrity makeup artist and Lancôme Creative Director Lisa Eldridge writes that a product’s texture is not so important as the choosing the right (matte) shade, building colour slowly, and taking the time to blend very well.

She does suggest keeping the texture close to that of your foundation (powder on powder, cream/liquid on cream/liquid, etc.), and blending with a brush that still has a little foundation on it to help create a clean finish.

If you’re new to contouring, Bourjois Mat Illusion Bronzing Powder, €10.99, is easy to work with and not pricey enough to prompt remorse if you hate the look. The powder is true matte and highly pigmented, so a little goes a long way.

Enthusiasts should consider the Anastasia Beverly Hills Cream Contour Kit, €47.17 @ www.cultbeauty.co.uk , recommended by Mario Dedivanovic. While the LA-based artist can use up to 17 products to sculpt Kim’s face for special events, this palette of six natural-look shades is plenty for anyone.

Shade

Contouring is about creating subtle, natural definition, so shade choice is very important. According to NARS’ International Lead Makeup Stylist Jane Richardson, contouring with shades more than two shades darker than your skin can appear harsh and ageing.

“If you like using your fingers to blend, try something like NARS The Matte Multiple [in Altaine or Vientiane], €41. If you prefer a powder, make sure it does not have red or orange undertones. I love using NARS Blush, €30, in Zen or Doucer.”

YSL’s Creative Director of Makeup Lloyd Simmonds also advocates contouring within two shades of your skin.

The brand’s new Les Sahariennes powders, €31 each, were inspired by skin phototypes, resulting in seven graduations of natural bronze. The fiber-in-balm formula conceals imperfections and keeps skin soft.

Lloyd’s diagram (pictured at top) is a great guideline for contouring and highlighting a classic oval face, but don’t be afraid to ask how best to adapt it for your features.

Brushes

You’ve probably seen Instagram images of half-contoured faces covered with off-putting streaks of brown and silver.

Brushes have much to do with the polished “after” pics. Small, fluffy eyeshadow brushes (one for contouring, one for highlighting) give great precision to your initial application.

MAC Brush #217 is hugely popular with the pros. Add a fan brush to your routine to feather product into the hairline, under the jawline, and around the cheekbones for an airbrushed finish.

A flat foundation brush helps even out harsh lines. Giorgio Armani’s brushes are my favourite and last for years. Real Techniques, a company founded by Pixiwoo vloggers Sam and Nic Chapman, offers good-quality tools for those on a budget.

Strobing

“Strobing” is 2015’s buzzword for highlighting without contouring, another technique that makeup artists have used for years.

“This new word for highlighting is really about selling products,” explains Wayne Goss (of super-popular YouTube channel Gossmakeupartist).

“No doubt we’ll soon seen highlighting palettes packaged as “strobing palettes.’”

Highlighting and contouring go hand in hand because the contrast between them enhances the effect of each technique. To create subtle, modern highlights on the face, Wayne applies highlighter before foundation.

“This saves you having to wipe off the lot if you apply too much shimmer. You can always apply more.”

Highlighter is not concealer, so be wary of applying it where skin isn’t clear. Judicious use is also important.

“Put the focus on the features you like best, but less really is more.”

He recommends products with pink undertones for fair skin, gold pearl for medium skin, and a whisper of burgundy for darker complexions.

MAC Strobe Cream, €31.50, and Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector, €45, are among his favourite illuminators.