John Paul Gaultier promoted exaggerated winged black eyeliner flicks while Gucci channelled a sixties Twiggy look, with doll-like eyelashes and nude lips. Tom Ford and Antonio Berardi updated nineties grunge with smudgy, morning-after eyeliner and shadows.
But how do these trends translate to real life? Does mulberry eye shadow and a mauve lip (Cara Delevigne, Stella McCartney) really suit everyone or would most women simply look ill if they showed up to work on a rainy Monday morning with bleached eyebrows (Kendall Jenner, Givenchy) or sharp facial contouring (Rosie Huntington Whiteley, Balmain)?
When Kim Kardashian began posting pictures of her pre-blended contoured face on Instagram last year, the beauty trend became big news. Celebrities were photographed on red carpets with tell-tale white facial patches, and contouring tutorials became popular.
“The beauty of a woman’s face is in the contours,” says celebrity make-up artist for Chanel, Christine Lucignano. However, she cautions against the use of heavy contouring on a daily basis.
“Kim Kardashian is not walking to Tesco wearing this make-up. Her product is very heavy handed and while it looks great on film, it can look hideous in real life. A mother of two would use something very different. We can all learn to do it to some extent though,” she says.
Lucignano recommends Chanel’s Les Beiges powders, right, as well as Tom Ford’s Shade and Illuminate palette.
Freelance make-up artist, Zoe Clark says avoid any shimmer or shine products for contouring. She contours with a matt bronzer such as Bobbi Brown Golden Light.
“The androgynous, rock chick look from the nineties is in and lots of magazines will be featuring a solid black structured smoky eye,” says National Face Designer for Giorgio Armani, Eoin Whelan.
“Dot a good, black eye pencil close to the base of the lashes and scribble it onto your eye. Don’t worry about a straight line, and don’t be afraid to use your fingertips to feel the way. The structure and shape of your eye will guide your finger,” says Whelan.
To achieve a very precise line, Clark uses a traditional cake eyeliner from Make Up Forever, with a slanted brush. To ensure a flawless complexion for the look, she uses MAC Select Moisturecover Concealer and the inimitable Touche Eclat for under eyes. For blemishes, Clark uses MAC Studio Finish Concealer.
“If black eye make-up feels too harsh, try chocolate brown or aubergine eyeshadow and liners for definition,” says Head of Lancome Elite Team, Shehla Shaikh.
“Thank god for A/W 2014 and port wine lips. Most autumn/winters, you see just reds; this year we’re seeing beautiful plums,” says Lucignano.
“Don’t go too dark if you have thin lips, it will look like a slash across your face. Also, the more orangey lipstick is very popular but not everybody can wear it,” says Clark, who recommends MAC Ruby Woo (right) as a staple red lipstick.
“For me, skin care is the most important. If the skin is in great nick, everything looks amazing. The most underused product is exfoliator,” says Lucignano, who exfoliates four times a week as well as exfoliating the models’ skin before photo shoots.
“Exfoliator has moved on and it’s no longer about apricot scrub. You need science and man-made products and enzymes to be involved.”
Lucignano brings light to the skin by using Le Blanc de Chanel sheer illuminating base.
“Follow up with foundation. Your mind will be blown by the finish of the skin. I used it on Gabe [Gabriel Byrne] at his wedding, not to correct or change but to bring light to the skin,” she says.
Lucignano also recommends twice yearly facials for women to ‘resynchronise the skin’ as the seasons change in September and March.
“You owe it to yourself and it’s like doing the NCT for your face,” says Lucignano, who recommends cosmetic dermatologists Jane and Katherine Mulrooney.
Must-have make-up product of all time: Black eye pencil. “This is central to doing any make up. You can almost do anything with it. The structured look of liquid liner can take a little longer to achieve.”
Key piece for autumn/winter 2014: Coloured eye shadows. “If you look at the catwalk looks, lots of them are monochromatic and effectively they are using almost one colour. This can be a very hard look though, so easier to use two to three colours to soften the look.”
Top beauty trick: “Don’t apply the eye colour and blend at the same time, as you will scatter the colour. Instead, blend with a clean brush or finger afterwards.”
Must-have make-up product of all time: Facial exfoliator “Exfoliation. It’s like a good pair of Spanx for the skin.”
Key piece for autumn/winter 2014: Chanel Le Blanc sheer illuminating base and port wine coloured lipstick (Chanel Rouge Coco Shine in Confident). Top Beauty Trick: Mix and match foundations to suit the various skin textures on your face and forget foundation brushes. Use your fingers to apply it. “You probably need more than one foundation because your forehead skin is different to the skin on your chin. Don’t think about the colour but concentrate on the formula instead.”
Must-have make-up product of all time: MAC Face and Body Foundation, left. “It’s lightweight and dries to a flawless, dewy finish that wears well. It generally works on all skin types and it’s used by all professional make-up artists worldwide as we don’t want skin to look caked. It’s very sheer and is good for women of a certain age.” Key piece for autumn/winter 2014: Eyeliner is the key piece. The A/W 2014 trend look is graphic liner, including arrows, cat eye flicks, colourful, futuristic and artistic geometric shapes.
Top Beauty Trick: “Foundation should not be used to mask, hide or cover up the skin. It should be used more like a varnish to wash over the skin in order to even out skin tone and provide a ‘base coat’. Concealer may then be used over foundation to hide any blemishes, discolourations or imperfections before setting with a lightweight translucent powder. Less is more.”
Must-have make-up product of all time: Lancome Grandiose Mascara, featuring a swan-neck wand. “‘When the wand is bent, it gives you a lot more control and it fans out the lashes completely.”
Key piece for autumn/winter 2014: Eyeliners, especially a softly smudged Kohl used inside the eye. Use a double liquid liner and false eyelashes on the top and bottom lids for a sixties Twiggy look.
Top Beauty Trick: “To make eyelashes look longer, grab a black kohl pencil and apply it into the roots of the top lashes, inside the water line. Put mascara on instantly and lashes start to look longer. You will instantly see a big difference.”
“Being a sufferer of the dreaded under-eye bags, I cannot live without Bobbi Brown Corrector and Creamy Concealer. The Corrector brightens the darkest areas under your eyes by instantly neutralising blue and purple tones. This allows the concealer to brighten more effectively and blend seamlessly into your skin tone. The creamy and hydrating formula gives you a fresh bright eyed look.”
“This has to be the Bobbi Brown Smokey Nudes Eye Palette. This versatile palette contains eight stunning shades from soft neutrals to deep smouldering greys. Perfect for creating soft and sultry smokey eyes for day, or that stand-out party look for evening.”
“To get the look of thicker fuller looking lashes, gently pull your lashes up just a bit and apply a coat of black liner to the top of the upper waterline, working it in between the lashes. The black base of the liner will instantly give the illusion of much fuller, stand-out lashes. Try using water resistant gel liner or a long wear pencil for all day or night.”