Aldi Exquisite Collection Gavi DOCG 2012
The Boscaini family have been growing grapes around the city of Verona since the late 18th century and have been at the forefront of technical innovation in the region in the last half-century.
Valpolicella is the classic wine from the region but in the mid 20th century it was surpassed in prestige by Amarone which is made from the dried versions of the same grapes. The grapes are dried on bamboo racks for up to 120 days by which time they have lost up to 40% of their weight but are packed with sugars, concentrated fruit and most important of all, flavour.
The three red grapes of the region — Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara — are particularly suited to this drying technique with Corvina the mainstay and the others adding structure and spice elements.
Masi along with other families in the region such as Allegrini and Tommasi have gradually refined their Amarones since the 1950s but also utilised dried grapes in other wines, most notably ripasso, of which Masi’s Campofiorin was the first in 1964 when dried grapes were added to fermented valpolicella causing a re-fermentation and a richer wine. Some producers merely let the valpolicella sit on the skins and lees of Amarone or the sweet Recioto wines to add extra flavour.
Masi have also revived an ancient and obscure Veneto grape called Oseleta which they developed in 1985 from just four ancient vines.
Recommended bottles this week include lighter summer drinking wines from Masi plus some wines from Aldi’s recently launched Exquisite Collection premium range which showcases well known wine styles, but at Aldi prices.
Aldi Exquisite Collection Gavi DOCG 2012 — €7.49
Stockist: Aldi
Gavi from Piedmont has always been highly sought after in the restaurants of the Ligurian coast so prices are never cheap. While Aldi’s inexpensive version has less of the finest Gavi’s exotic aromas, it does have some very pleasant lemon-gooseberry flavours, good acidity and some lingering hints of tropical fruit.
Aldi Exquisite Collection Bordeaux 2012 — €7.49
Stockist: Aldi
It is easy to forget that Sauvignon Blanc originates in Bordeaux given how prominent it is in the Loire and the New World. This has light apple and pear aromas which follow through onto the palate mixed with citrus, hints of under-ripe pineapple and a crisp finish.
Aldi Exquisite collection Fleurie 2010 — €9.49
Stockist: Aldi
Fleurie is easily the most popular Beaujolais Cru wines and you would normally pay at least €15, so I was pleased to find that this had typical bright cherry aromas and some bitter-sweet stewed fruits on the palate. You could chill this a little for serving on warm days with grilled meats.
Rosa dei Masi, Veneto IGT, Italy — €16.49
Stockists: Widely Available
Made from partially dried grapes in much the same way as the Campofiorin Ripasso but using the Refosco grape which makes rather tannic red wines. The addition of dried grapes softens the style and the juicy dried red-currant aromas and fresh clean raspberries and cherries on the palate make this a supremely elegant rosé.
Masianico Pinot Grigio Verduzzo delle Venezie IGT — €16.49
Stockists: Widely available
Too often we buy Pinot Grigio at rock-bottom prices and far too often those wines taste of virtually nothing. Pinot Grigio needs careful handling to bring out its character and this shows just how exotic and fragrant the grape can taste with floral and lemon honey aromas, honeysuckle and passion-fruit and a lingering characterful lemon-zest finish.
Masi Bonacosta Valpolicella Classico DOC 2010, Italy — €14.49
Stockists: Widely Available
Fresh juicy aromas of black cherries with some spicy touches. Lingering cherry and ripe plum flavours on the palate and a solid fruit structure that manages to be both supple and appetising. Serve with parma ham or with grilled steaks.
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