The bird is the word

WE know the early bird catches the worm.

But five years ago, who could have foreseen such an exaltation of them in Irish restaurants, and the rich pickings they would offer?

Back then, Irish restaurants looked set to flounder with the economy. Eating out is a luxury and consumers were quick to clamp down on the habit when recession hit. By late 2010, the Restaurants Association was claiming 80% of its members operated at a loss.