Hidden gem

EVERY city and most towns have their almost hidden places, tucked-away half secrets that, because they are not on a busy corner, are found only through effort.

When this off-the-beaten-track sense of remove is combined with a beautiful, almost city-centre location and a culture of excellence then such a discovery is to be treasured.

Cork’s Hayfield Manor is folded away in its own little corner of quiet and serenity. Almost an urban country house, there is a particular sense of intimacy and commitment that are easily understood when you realise it is a family-run hotel in what used to be a family home. This warmth of place has been recognised by a plethora of domestic and international awards.

My companion in silver cutlery — DW — and I visited the hotel’s restaurant Orchids on a Friday evening and though it was very busy, everything moved serenely and efficiently as can be expected when five-star standards are set and observed. The food was impressive too.

For starters DW opted for warm goat’s cheese mousse, hazelnut foccacia, various dressings and salads. It may be churlish to fault it but cheese on toast, no matter how finely suited, was out of kilter with the tenor of the rest of the meal.

I really enjoyed pan-fried Bantry scallops with a tomato and lime salsa, beetroot jelly and dressings. It carried the wake-up zing that makes for an impressive starter. A good opening.

This was followed by sorbets which were very sweet and did not have the acidity to clean or refresh. More ice-cream or frozen yoghurt than sharp, citric fruit juices frozen. Even so they were rich, with real substance and presence but maybe too heavy at that point.

We had a choice of seven main courses — two fish, two vegetarian, three meat including a beguiling sounding rabbit dish — so, as another Friday night entertainment might promise, something for everyone in the audience.

Other than the rabbit there was nothing that could be described as even vaguely daring but then reassurance and comfort are important in a menu too. Conservatism has its place and so it proved.

The bass, turbot and duck were tempting but a deep and abiding love of good beef, again, tipped the scales. A plate of seared fillet of local beef, Dauphinoise potatoes and the usual trimmings was excellent.

It is almost a national cliche that Irish beef is as good as any anywhere but that truth is very often threatened by poor cooking. Not in this case. The meat was cooked as requested and was truly excellent. Succulent, well-rested, deep-tasting and plate-polishingly good. Really excellent raw produce enhanced by the cooking process. A real treat.

DW chose turbot with a lobster celeriac remoulade and though a relatively uncomplicated dish it was impressive. Again first-rate cooking skills were evident.

Perfectly firm, fresh flesh, moist and full of sea tastes coated with a crisp layer. Taste and tactile senses were satisfied in a way almost unique to a good fish dish.

All in all two excellent main courses.

An excellent dessert of baked vanilla cheesecake with Amarena cherries followed, though DW’s crème brulee with a pear did not leave a lasting impression.

Hayfield Manor is a formal setting where great emphasis is placed on service and silver-service presentation. It does this very well but does not lose sight of the fact that food is the lead character in a restaurant.

It may be ever so slightly off Cork city’s beaten track, and that is one of its great charms, but it is well worth seeking out.