Wine with Leslie: Three of my favourite Italian white wines and why
Joe McNamee: "In most regions, whites have improved remarkably, even much-maligned Frascati can be drinkable nowadays, made with Greco or Malvasia rather than Trebbiano."
The wine world is changing, it’s had to. As alcohol levels creep up in red wines and consumers look to lighter fresher styles. Sales of red are dropping and rosé and whites are on the up, so producers are adapting.
The Rhône is one example: these days producers are all planting white grapes to try to make up for the lower demand for reds. Good luck finding a red Rhône under 15% abv these days so adding whites into the mix makes perfect sense.
The most famous example is Gigondas, which didn’t even permit whites until 2023; if you had made white wine you had to sell it as basic Côtes du Rhône Blanc.
Rioja is another example, many people don’t even know there is white wine available in this most famous of Spain’s red wine regions, but there has been an 80% increase in white production in the last decade with new varieties now permitted, including Verdejo and Garnacha Blanca.
In Italy, sales of Italian red wine dropped by over 7% in 2024 while white sales grew by around 5%. Abruzzo is planting Pecorino rather than more Montepulciano and in Tuscany it is Vermentino rather than Sangiovese.
I’ll definitely feature white Rhônes and Riojas soon, but this week I’m focusing on Italian whites with three of my favourites, only one of which has appeared before.
Whites from Northern and Central Italy were often watery and best served ice cold; that’s still the case with entry-level Pinot Grigio, of course.
In most regions, whites have improved remarkably, even much-maligned Frascati can be drinkable nowadays, made with Greco or Malvasia rather than Trebbiano.
Soave has perhaps seen the biggest turnaround, from simple and forgettable to some of the most delightful seafood wine on the planet and, finally, I suggest a Southern white made from Italy's best white grapes, Fiano and Greco.
A blend of Fiano and Greco (as found in Greco di Tufo) from Basilicata, the ankle of Italy between the heel of Puglia and the toe of Calabria.
White peach, tropical fruits and lemon curd on the nose, fruity and ripe on the palate but balanced by good acidity and freshness finish with a with lingering lemon-lime zestiness.
- JJ O’Driscolls; World Wide Wines; Vintry; Whelehans; Baggot Street Wines; Wineonline.ie
This is reduced from €22 in O’Briens for the next month and I don’t believe I have mentioned it before.
The Rizzardi family have been making wine since the 18th century and head winemaker (Count) Giuseppe Rizzardi makes elegant restrained wines.
This is 100% Garganega from a terraced plot behind the castle, lemon, bay leaf and herbal aromas, stony freshness and tangy citrus intensity. Rizzardi Lugana and 3 Cru Amarone are also on offer.
- O’Briens
Yes, Pecorino the name of one of Italy’s great cheeses, but it’s also a fine fleshy floral grape variety found in the Marche and Abruzzo.
This tasty example is floral and ripe with white peach and citrus aromas (and a touch of thyme) combined and with a rounded textured palate balanced by lemony acidity.
Other Pecorino to watch for include Cataldi Madonna, Ciu Ciu (Winesdirect), Tollo and Gran Sasso.
- No. 21, SuperValu Skibbereen and Tramore; Wine Centre; Vintry; Drink Store
This is Inchicore-based Stillgarden’s excellent take on Chartreuse, which is very scarce due to limited production and its popularity with mixologists.
Herbal, minty, punchy and delicious, serve on ice, make a Last Word or Tipperary cocktail or just put a dash in your hot chocolate.
Stillgarden also make Buí 43 (yellow Charteuse) and a delicious Amaro called O’Maro.
- Bradleys; O’Donovans; Castle; Worldwide Wines; Celtic; Stillgardendistillery.com
