Restaurant review: Dublin's Lotus Eaters is a triumphant rebirth of The Pig's Ear
The Lotus Eaters, Dublin 2
- ‘The Lotus Eaters’ by The Pigs Ear
- 4 Nassau Street, Dublin 2, D02 YX74
- Tel: 01-6703865
- thepigsear.ie
- Sun-Mon: Closed; Tues-Fri: 5.30-9pm; Sat: 12-2.30pm & 5.30-9pm
- Dinner for two including a multi-course tasting each and two generous glasses of wine cost a very reasonable €148.90
WhenOdysseus and his men were heading back home from Troy they got blown off course and found themselves in a strange land full of friendly people. These folk were happy to share their Lotus flowers and soon Odysseus’s crew were as blissed out on this flower-food-drug as the locals. Similarly Tennyson’s mariners in ‘The Lotos-eaters’ found themselves lingering on ‘beds of asphodel’ and in fine form.
Beyond the myths the real life Lotus flower has always symbolised rebirth or rising from a dark place into the light or a sort of spiritual awakening. An appropriate name then for the rebirth of The Pig’s Ear which opened in 2008 under the care of chef Stephen McAllister and his wife Andrea. The Pig’s Ear has been ‘parked’ to make way for Asian inspired The Lotus Eaters.
The room hasn’t changed, just the menu, and a rather fascinating menu it is too. We chose the tasting menu for a mere €60 per head which worked out less expensive than ordering the same items direct from the à la carte.
Oysters kicked us off – topped with bonito flakes and a fruity pungent ‘nahm jim’ sauce which perhaps slightly overpowered the oyster’s briny goodness but we didn’t care, it was a gorgeous combination of flavours, luscious and intense.
Hamachi fish had been sliced wafer thin and cured with yuzu juice with some yoghurt and hibiscus flavours on the side for dipping into. The citrus yuzu flavours somehow did not overpower the delicacy of the flesh but rather brightened it, while the yoghurt and hibiscus added floral creamy notes.
Next, a grilled scallop sitting atop a disk of pig’s head black pudding made in house and topped with magical café de Paris butter, that creamy, mustardy sauce often served with steak. The scallop was caramelised and sweet, the black pudding succulent and meaty with a touch of iron and the sauce added nuttiness and richness.
Beef tartare with brioche and miso sounds innocent, but this was in fact a thick brioche toasted sandwich with beef tartare inside and a gorgeous citrus rich miso mayonnaise for dipping. The tartare remained creamy and fleshy, just warmed slightly by the toasting of the brioche. For the third time during the meal my guest proclaimed this the best dish so far!
Next a grilled ball of wagyu beef burger served with a bowl of short grain Japanese rice and an egg yolk in soy sauce plus some crisp dried onions, a pot of spicy togarashi spice to sprinkle on top. We broke into the burger and mixed it into the rice with the egg and condiments – the beef sumptuous and the onions and spice adding intensity to the sweet meat.
The wine list has around 70 options, all well chosen and includes sake and pleasing aperitif options such as white port and tonic and fresh peach Bellinis.
Classic French regions dominate but there are also good value options from Italy and Spain. My guest opted for a glass of Tramin Pinot Grigio (€12.95) from Alto Adige, arguably one of the best Pinot Grigo there is – floral and tangy and a world away from the washed-out blandness of more commercial brands. I opted for a fruit-forward textured glass of Bourgogne Blanc from Louis Moreau (replacing the out of stock Alain Chavy) – a little more expensive at €15.95 but not overpriced for the quality.
Three desserts came next. A perfectly rolled crêpe had been caramelised and filled with custard, decorated with passion fruit seeds and a tiny mound of clementine zest mixed with chilli and salt to add zing. Chocolate cheesecake with black sesame icecream was as good as it sounds, cooked in the Basque style with dark chocolate and crumbly lush textures cut through by the nutty black sesame ice cream.
Next a yuzu parfait with cherry and matcha which my guest adored, underneath the mousse was white chocolate and cherry-oat clusters, marzipan and buttermilk. I wasn’t certain about the slightly cheesy note in the buttermilk but it certainly intrigued.
So the Lotus Eaters is a bit of a triumph, potions are generous, prices low, staff attentive, and the view over Trinity is lovely – I think you should go early and gradually work your way through the à la carte, lingering on all the rich, complex and funky flavours, you’ll likely have to be dragged away weeping at spear point, just like Odysseus’s men.
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