Wine with Leslie: wines for the last barbecue of 2023's Indian summer
Pic: iStock
The rush of warm weather this September has had me back at barbecue duties and when I think of cooking meat over fire I always think of Argentina.
The preference in Argentina is for low and slow cooking over or near flames and I remember seeing famed Argentinian Chef Francis Mallman setting up his wood fire in the early hours of the morning at the much missed Ballymaloe Litfest — he was starting work just as the rest of us were going to bed after the party in the big shed.
Don’t expect rare steak in Argentina, the meat is often lovingly and slowly cooked over cool wood charcoal — it should still have some pinkness, however.
I visited Argentina a few years ago thanks to the kindness of Doña Paula and I ate in two of Mallmann’s restaurants and generally feasted on meat during my stay.
During the day I was mostly down holes looking at the soil structure with the Andes mountains glistening on the horizon. It was a magical trip.
I realise that Doña Paula is rather supermarket-focused here in Ireland but don’t let that faze you as quality is high at all levels and I recommend their Los Cardos this week which is at a crazy low price in SuperValu.
For a bit more character look for the 1100 Malbec, the Black Edition or best of all the Seleccion de Bodega which is packed with dark cherry fruits.
Recommendations this week are all from Argentina and most were tasted at the recent Argentinian Wine Fair — all punch above their price point.
I recommend my first Torrontés in a long while, as well as a Chardonnay, a Cabernet Franc, and of course some Malbecs.
Standards were high at the fair and my only complaint was the shortage of Bonardas on show (the second grape of Argentina).
I have my first mention of Curious Wines in a while with their entry-level Malbec Finca Amadeo which is on special offer along with a bunch of other Malbecs this month.
Details on their website or visit their warehouse shop in Tramore Commercial Park in Cork.
Among the wines they have on offer are the Quarisa ‘Q’ Malbec for €10.88, Finca Amadeo Gran Reserva 2018 reduced from €29 to €22 and the Bleasdale Generations at €21, down from €28.
Go on, put the barbecue on one last time.
From vines planted in 1998 on the Doña Paula estate at an altitude of around 1000m using sustainable agriculture where possible. This is on offer at €8 in Dunnes and €10 in the other big supermarket chains. Ripe blackcurrant aromas with black pepper and a touch of graphite — solidly fruity and fresh. Serve cool.
On special offer at just €10.50 from Curious Wines who have a selection of Malbecs on offer at the moment. This is the entry-level wine from this producer but still has some classic Malbec character. Dark cherry fruit aromas mixed with darker plums and with some pleasing floral notes, serve a little cool to bring out the freshness.
Torrontés should be as popular as Viognier I believe - I adore the floral tropical fruits this grape exhibits and in the hands of the Torrontés Queen Susana Balbo you get plenty of balancing freshness. This has fragrant and vibrant aromas of tropical fruits and flowers, rounded and full flavoured on the palate but with dried lime and kiwi freshness.
From vineyards at 1300 metres above sea level with whole bunch pressing at controlled temperatures and fermented and aged in new French oak barriques. Lemon cream and ripe melon aromas mixed with honeysuckle and vanilla, luscious and full-flavoured but with a delightful zesty freshness, beautifully balanced and elegant.
Catena Malbecs have often appeared here but not their Cab Franc which is sourced from sandy loam soil vineyards at 1090m in the Andes. Red fruits with cherry and strawberry to the fore, opening out on the mid-palate with soft berry fruits, expressive and fleshy on the palate with spice and pink peppercorn notes, juicy but remaining fresh on the finish.
Luigi Bosca is an old favourite and the 2021 vintage as good as ever. The La Linda entry-level range is also worth seeking out as is the Bosca Cabernet Sauvignon. Rich bright purple hue, red and black fruit aromas with a touch of chocolate and pepper - lingering, juicy and concentrated.
9 White Deer (Fía Bán) have been brewing in Ballyvourney in the Múscraí Gaeltacht since 2014 and I should mention them more often. Sustainability is a major focus as is using Irish ingredients, and they make a full range of gluten-free beers (from lagers to ales to stouts) that in no way compromise on flavour. Delivery within Ireland is €10.
Kolsch originates in Cologne and is an ale treated like a lager. Pouring a dark gold with noble hop and malt aromas, fresh and malty with citrus and herbal notes — crisp on the mid palate with a zingy tang of hops and citrus on the finish. Warmly recommended.
