Restaurant Review: Hakkahan Chinese is yet another reason to visit Dublin's Stoneybatter

And a reminder to always order the aubergine, especially in a good Sichuan restaurant

Sat, 09 Jul, 2022 - 01:45

Leslie Williams

Hakkahan Chinese,
32 Stoneybatter,
Dublin 7, D07X504.
Tel: 01 552 7678
www.hakkahan.ie
Instagram: @hakkahan_dublin

When I heard about Hakkahan Chinese opening last summer I wasn’t all that excited, given that so many Chinese restaurants follow the same tried and tested formula. But then I heard that they were Sichuan-focused, make their own dumplings, that they mention their sourcing, and that everything on the menu is cooked from scratch - all very good things.

Hakkahan is in bustling Stoneybatter, already home to a cluster of good inexpensive restaurant options (see the review of Vietnom in the Glimmermam from a few weeks ago). Hakkahan’s owner Ryon Wen is ‘Hakka’ which is a sub-group of Han Chinese people that originate in Northern China but can now also be found in Southern China and in Taiwan, the internet tells me. Hakkahan’s chef Terry Yang is from Sichuan Province (and worked in China Sichuan) so the current menu reflects his background - however, a Hakka chef is joining the team soon they tell me.

I visited on a humid Tuesday evening with a lovely friend who lives just a few dozen metres away. She is a regular customer and her only complaint is that they don’t do takeaway - a deliberate decision on the restaurant’s part as everything is cooked from scratch and they feel they are too small to cope with the extra orders that would ensue (and trust me, they would very much ensue).

We began with some Tsing Tao Beers and a selection of starters - it was a beer kind of day. The wine list is short but has some well-chosen wines that will match the food well including a Viognier-Antão Vaz from Portugal, a German Gewürztraminer, an Albariño and a Pfalz Pinot Noir.

Prawn Har Gao Dumplings were filled with prawns, bamboo shoots and apple sauce and had a pleasing fresh taste - there is a little extra chew in the dumplings as they are homemade but the filling was fairly faultless. Sesame Prawn Sourdough Toast intrigued me and had to be ordered, and it tasted even better than it sounds. Fluffy, meaty prawns on good quality toast with lots of sesame seeds - the rich flavours lifted by some yuzu mayonnaise for dipping.

Salt and Pepper Fresh Squid (as in ‘not frozen’ as is so often the case) were squeaky and tender with a light crumb coating and with fresh chilli for zing. Pai Huang Gua was a kind of cucumber salad with smashed cucumber, garlic and chilli oil - this was tasty in itself but also acted as a welcome contrast to the richness of the prawn toast and fried squid.

For mains, I went a bit mad but with the knowledge that a neglected spouse at home was hoping for a care package on my return. Basil Duck worked so well I wondered why I had not encountered this combination before - rich garlic, ginger and chilli sauce added heft to the dish but allowed the fried duck pieces with their kick of anise from the basil to shine. Mala Spicy Lamb had a proper chilli kick but also lip-numbing heat from the Sichuan peppers.

I’ve said it before but no harm repeating it - always order the aubergine, especially in a good Sichuan restaurant. So it proved here - sweet rich aubergine pieces had been crisped enough that they held their texture while the fermented red beans and rich garlic-ginger sauce gave weight and extra complexity. Even a handful eaten cold from the fridge at 1am tasted amazing.

Hakkahan is busy so unless you are visiting early in the week it is best to book. The good news is that they are planning to open a second restaurant in Rathmines and their Double Happy takeaway in Rathfarnham serves a similar menu. If you are not in Dublin any time soon you will also find them at Forest Fest, Electric Picnic and All Together Now Festivals - including demos at the latter two.

So, yet another reason to visit Stoneybatter: charming staff, delicious more-ish food in a simple setting with access to great pubs afterwards for pints or dessert cocktails.

The Tab:

Four small dishes, three mains, and a few Tsing Tao beers cost €106.00 - and I had enough for two dinners to take home.

How To:

Tuesday-Sunday: 12 Noon- 10pm

The Verdict