Restaurant review: Wise move to visit — and revisit — Sage in Midleton
Sage Midleton exterior Joe McNamee restaurant review
Over the course of a decade, I’ve visited Sage more than most other restaurants. Conveniently located on my — slightly extended — doorstep, it has been fascinating to watch chef-proprietor Kevin Aherne’s culinary evolution, particularly as a 12-Mile Menu locavore zealot, when his kitchen’s larder was sourced almost entirely from within that self-imposed limit.
The stays of that very successfully realised culinary restriction (further tightened by pursuit of Michelin glory) were eventually loosened and Aherne’s cooking became less showy, relaxed, more concerned with flavour than accolade, and all the better for it, as he delivered probably the best food of his career.
