Wine with Leslie: Sláinte to Irish vineyards this St Patrick's Day
Quaint river through the medieval town of Semur en Auxois, Burgundy, France
The appalling events in Ukraine in recent weeks has led many people to ask me if Ukrainian wines are available in Ireland and unfortunately the answer seems to be no.
Ukraine has a long wine tradition dating back to at least the 4th century BCE, especially in the south of the country near the Black Sea and of course in Crimea. The region around Odessa is the largest and growing conditions are not dissimilar to Hungary and Romania and in 2019 more than 130 million litres of wine were produced on 40,000 hectares. If you curious to read more log on to ukr.wine and hopefully in the future we might get a chance to taste some and support their economy.
The heartbreaking sight of refugees fleeing into neighbouring countries reminded me that Irish people frequently fled to France after failed attempts to overthrow our colonial power and many ended up in the wine business. Ireland’s ties with French wine (and brandy of course) are long-standing and we remain an important customer.
A new book will detail some of this history when it is published in early May — by Patricia McCarthy (Four Courts Press). The book is a large-format hardback and I will give you more details once I get my hands on a copy — it sounds fascinating.
In other wine book news, Raymond Blake has a new book out entitled , published by Sky Horse Publishing and available from the usual online sources — and hopefully in bookshops soon (price €25). Raymond’s hugely useful book on the Côte Dôr and his charming are essential to any wine library and I’ll let you know how this compares once I finish it. So far I’m very much enjoying his no-nonsense approach to this vast subject and his mixing of anecdote with history, agronomy and erudition.
Recommendations this week are all from France and include a couple of wines with Irish connections to mark St Patrick’s Day. There are dozens of Château with Irish names and as I can’t afford Ch. Lynch-Bages anymore I suspect I’ll be opening a bottle of Château Phélan Ségur — their second wine, Frank Phélan 2018, is currently on offer in O’Briens for €34 and the 2017 Phélan-Ségur at €68. Here also are some more affordable Bordeaux and a delicious Burgundy and Beaujolais to seek out.
Sláinte.
Stockist: Dunnes Stores
Made by Irish-French couple Neasa and Laurent Miquel so a good choice for St Patrick’s Day, particularly with roast lamb or Irish stew. Made from old vine Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre in arguably the best sub-region of the Languedoc, maturing nicely but with plenty of years left. Ripe brambly fruits with herbal 'garrigue' and black pepper aromas, layered, elegant and delicious. Bargain of the week.
Stockist: Dunnes Stores
Belfastman, Terry Cross, purchased this estate on St Patrick's Day 2000 continuing the long tradition of Irish people in Bordeaux. The estate has been fully restored and the vineyard replanted and the vines are now nicely maturing. Always drinkable with soft plummy Merlot fruit showing through with the Cabernet providing some heft. Dark fruit aromas with a touch of mocha and cedar, lingering plum and damson fruits. (reduced from €17).
Stockist: WineSpark winespark.com
Sneaking this in here as it is worth the extra 95c. WineSpark makes its profits from their monthly €10 subscription service so this would usually cost €26. Not too many Juliénas Beaujolais Cru on the market here. This pours a rich dark purple with ripe aromas of black cherries: full flavoured and substantial on the palate with good concentration and weight and a pleasing fleshy richness balanced by acidity and earth tones.
Stockist: WineSpark winespark.com
Another suggestion from WineSpark — this would normally retail at €37. The Hautes-Côtes of Beaune and Nuits are quite different from the Côte Dôr in character but can offer great value charming wines if you choose well. This has bright raspberry fruit aromas with spice hints that both follow through on the palate: juicy and pleasing with red cherry notes coming through on the finish. Perhaps best served a little cool with some charcuterie.
Stockists: Vintry, The Corkscrew, McHughs, Clontarf Wines, Redmonds, Jus de Vine, 64 Wines, Wineonline.ie
Larose Perganson is on the border of Saint-Julien and Pauillac and owned by nearby Larose Trintaudon — it often outperforms its older brother. The 2015 has fine cedar, spice and dark fruit aromas: concentrated creamy cassis and blackberries on the palate and not a little elegance. The 2014 (€35) is still on sale in most shops and it too is excellent if perhaps a little less plush.
Stockists: Luceys Mallow, Alain & Christine’s Kenmare, Red Nose Wine, Redmonds, Wineonline.ie
From a ninth-generation winemaker who farms his vineyards biodynamically. This is from a 5-ha plot ‘Le Clos du Château’ on the border of Puligny Montrachet and its provenance shows. Creamy pear and apple aromas, textured and layered with light spice hints mixed with cooked white fruits and lingering complexity. Their Bourgogne Rouge is equally impressive — floral, silky and elegant.
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Stockists: Independents, Ardkeen Stores, McCambridges, Celtic Whiskey Shop, Martins, JamesFox.ie, thesheddistillery.com
This is the first Single Malt Irish Whiskey distilled in Connacht in 107 according to PJ Rigney, the man who also brought us the hugely successful (and tasty) Gunpowder Gin. This is a limited edition with just over 8000 numbered bottles for sale so don’t delay.
Made from 100% malted barley, triple distilled, aged in Kentucky Bourbon and Marsala Casks and is non-chill filtered and hand bottled. Aromas of apple tart tatin with honey, hazelnut and coffee notes — creamy sweet and rounded on the palate with prickly clove and spice touches and a pepper-tinged caramel finish. A nicely balanced and elegant whiskey.
