Restaurant review: Every neighbourhood should have a place like Juniors
A Juniors sandwich
You don’t need me to tell you that these past two years have been particularly tough on chefs and the hospitality industry. One chef however only came to my attention during lockdown thanks to the gorgeous photos he was posting on social media.
Fiachra Kenny had been working in Juniors for just a handful of days when the lockdown was announced in March 2020 — wisely he was kept on by Paul and Barry McNeary who also own Paulie's Pizza and the excellent chain of food stores Lotts & Co.
It took me a while but I finally got to visit Junior's last week. A distinctly American influenced menu was introduced in recent months so as you might expect there are burgers and steaks but also more creative options.
Tuna Tostaods (€10.50) are deep-fried tacos filled to overflowing with diced fresh tuna ceviche and avocado with flashes of soy and lime ponzu adding extra zing, and a chipotle mayo rounding off the flavours nicely with some light smoky heat. Lobster and Comte Arancini (€10) were nicely crispy and oozed perfectly with both lobster and Comte asserting themselves over the creamy risotto rice.
Char-grilled Jumbo Shrimp (€22) with garlic, chilli, lime and parsley butter and a wedge of burnt lemon should not have been as delicious as it was, but these prawns sang with flavour and as I sucked their heads the juices and dribbles of sauce fell from my fingers (and my chin), and I found my mood changed from supremely happy to something closer to ecstatic.
Pork Schnitzel Holstein (€22) was a breaded pork cutlet with capers and anchovies and topped with a fried egg — while working well with a pleasing contrast between the tender pork and the crisp exterior, we felt it would have worked even better if bashed a little thinner and with a few more anchovies and capers.
Sides cost €4 each and we munched through almost a full bowl of crispy French fries and loved the Sweet corn with n’duja and Lime butter but the crisp pressed potato was a little stodgy and was mostly uneaten.
The wine list is short but has some good options with a mix of US craft beers and a choice of seven well-priced wines from Spain and Italy. From the specials board I chose Ciello Rosso Nero d’Avola for €25, a wine I know well, and its bright cherry and darker fruits were a fine match for the meal and our mood.
Deep Fried Puff Pastry Apple Pie (€6.95) was a world away from anything you have had from a certain American fast food restaurant — buttery pastry enclosed sweet tender apple chunks dusted with cinnamon and my guests Mille-Feuille had layers of nutty Praline Cream and Chocolate Crémeux between layers of puff pastry, managing to taste rich and satisfying while retaining a lightness of touch.
There was one more task. A dish I’d spotted on Instagram wasn't available so a second trip was made to Juniors the following Sunday. Chicken and Waffles (€20) is a classic American diner treat rarely seen on menus here and it had to be experienced, especially if it tasted even half as good as it looked in the photo.
Three extra crispy pieces of fried chicken and two fluffy waffles were served with sweetened whipped cream and a small jug of gravy. According to the Internet, this is Amish style Chicken & Waffles while in Southern cooking honey or syrup is more typical. The gravy was rich and did work, but a dollop of cream and drizzle of stolen syrup had a transformative effect on the dish, turning it from comforting to decadent. The sweet syrup and crispy batter greeted each other like post-lockdown lovers and joy ensued.
Junior is exactly the kind of restaurant that I hope will thrive post Covid-restrictions. This is not occasion dining but delicious, treat yourself of a damp Monday dining — if I lived nearer I'd be there once a week.
Dinner for two including two starters, two mains, three sides, two desserts and a bottle of organic red wine cost €117.40
Mon-Fri - 8.30am-10.30pm 12-2.30, 5-10pm
Sat - 11am-10.30pm
Sun - 11m-8pm
Food: 8.5/10
Wine: 8/10
Service: 9/10
Ambience: 8/10
Value: 9/10
Juniors serves well crafted supremely tasty American influenced food but with a touch of sophistication and élan — every neighbourhood should have one.
- Juniors, 2 Bath Avenue, Beggars Bush, Dublin 4.
- juniors.ie,
- Tel: 01-6643648
- Instagram: @juniorsdublin & @fiachrakenny
