Restaurant review: culinary delights in Roscommon

Gleeson's Townhouse and Keenan's serve up the staples - and ramp up the quality

Gleeson's Townhouse, Co. Roscommon

• Gleesons Townhouse
• Roscommon Town
• Tel: [phone] 
• www.gleesonsroscommon.ie 

As the days and the sea warms up the whole country seems to be heading west in search of the great outdoors. So in late June this is what we did too, we headed west - but then we stopped halfway in Roscommon.

Gleesons is a fine old Townhouse Hotel right in the centre of Roscommon Town on the market square. If you follow my lead and head inland this summer it is a must-visit. With (rare) heated outdoor seating in two large areas and of course indoor dining if you stay (our overnight stay in a nicely furnished double room cost €98).

Gleesons is family-run with a new generation in the process of taking over and all the staff we met had the relaxed but professional Irish hospitality vibe down to a fine art.

Outdoors was buzzing and busy but this was my first chance for indoor pints in 2021. I'm pleased to report that the proceeds of my citrus-black pepper-tinged Sheep Stealer IPAs never left the county - no UK or Amsterdam headquartered multinational brewery got a penny.

Gleeson's Dinner menu is designed with that much-maligned term ‘comfort food’ in mind which was exactly what I expected and hoped for - it even has a main course section entitled ‘Classic Comforts’. I wanted it all, but compromised by ordering three starters. Crispy breaded Piri-Piri Mushrooms with a sweet mango chutney were nigh-on perfect while Sean Kelly Black Pudding and Beetroot Salad (€8) had crisp-fried rich black pudding that contrasted nicely with the organic beetroot and nicely dressed leaves.

The Engineer’s Chicken and Wild Mushroom Vol-au-Vont tasted rich and creamy with meaty wild mushrooms and good quality flaky pastry - in other words, it tasted like this dish always should have, but so rarely did back in the ’70s and ‘80s.

Gleeson's 'signature dish' Lamb Stew (€13) was an ultra-classic Irish Stew that had not been messed with and was not just the better for it, it was perfect. My 10oz Rib-Eye was nicely cooked and came with fat crispy chips and umami-rich mushrooms and onions - it was very good, but next time we are ordering two Lamb Stews.

The wine list is short with nine reds and five whites covering the classic regions. Our bright fruity Zenato Valpolicella was enjoyable and a snip at €33, however, I think the food in Gleesons could absolutely cope with some finer wines - maybe a Rioja Gran Reserva or a Cru-Classé Bordeaux.

We finished with a Baked Alaska (my first in 30 years), with good meringue but ice cream that could have been a little softer. Dinner for two including starters, mains, dessert and wine cost a mere €98.00. A final point - the dining room was perhaps a bit too casual and plain - some tweaks to up the comfort level (candles and cushions perhaps) would go a long way.

Cocktails at Keenans, Co Roscommon

• Keenans
• Tarmonbarry, Co. Roscommon
• Tel: [phone]
• keenanshotel.ie

On our return to Dublin we stopped for lunch at Roscommon’s second most famous restaurant: Keenans of Tarmonbarry, now being run by the 6th generation. Tarmonbarry is on the river Shannon and the N5 so attracts cabin cruisers as well as cars. On that busy Friday afternoon the raised outdoor space was almost full, with all the girls in high heels and summer gúnas.

The menu has all the staples you might expect from a roadside restaurant - garlic mushrooms and steak sandwiches, and big chunky burgers. I’m told there is new blood in the kitchen so expect gluten-free desserts and specials as the summer progresses.

A plate of Chicken Wings (€9.95) in a tangy hot sauce were solid enough although the Engineer would have liked more richness and a larger portion of the Blue Cheese Mayo. My creamy bowl of chowder (€6.95) was as I’d hoped - a classic mirepoix (onion, carrot, celery) base, and packed with fish - mussels, crab pieces, smoked and whitefish - and good homemade brown bread on the side. 

This would have been plenty but in service of you dear readers we also ordered a main course of Breaded Haddock which was crispy and light and served with proper chunky crispy chips and a minty fresh pea purée. With the addition of St. Mel’s IPAs (sourced 12km away) and a double espresso, our meal cost €52.

So instead of heading to the coast this summer, why not head for the lakes, rivers and green fields of the Midlands - you deserve a bit of comfort and minding.