Wine with Leslie: Red Bordeaux, the perfect match for roast lamb for Easter
With Easter approaching do remember that red Bordeaux is considered the perfect match for roast lamb
The wine world has been in mourning in recent weeks since the death of Stephen Spurrier, one of the Britain’s best known (and most readable) wine writers and a man who changed the way the world viewed fine wine.
Back in 1976 Spurrier owned a wine shop on Place de la Madeleine in the 8th Arrondissement and often ran wine courses for visiting Americans. To celebrate the 200th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence he decided to organise a blind tasting of California’s best Cabernet and Chardonnay and match them with some Bordeaux and Burgundy. To the shock of the panel of French tasters (and Spurrier himself) the highest-ranked red and white wine were both from California — Stag’s Leap and Château Montelena respectively.
The ‘Judgement of Paris’, as the tasting became known, was at first believed to be a fluke but it was re-run many times with the same wines and California won every time. The story of the tasting was the basis of the film starring Alan Rickman and Chris Pine (currently available via Apple TV). You can read a significantly more accurate version in Stephen Spurrier’s memoir: which is available from Whelehans Wines. by George Taber is also worth a read, Taber was the only journalist present and broke the story worldwide .
Spurrier recreated a version of the tasting in Dublin in 2018 in Whelehans and, on that occasion, France won but such an occurrence is rare. The original wines are long gone so David Whelehan used more recent classics and I include some wines from his excellent shop below.
Now it should be said that Bordeaux makes around 650 million bottles of wine every year at all price levels and is actually a relatively reliable region once you move beyond the entry-level and this week's choices reflect this. I would take most €15 Bordeaux Supérieurs over most Central Valley Cabernets as my palate prefers their more restrained character. I would also prefer to spend €50 on the Frog’s Leap Cabernet than almost any of the Cru Classé wines that are three times as famous and cost twice as much.
With Easter approaching do remember that red Bordeaux is considered the perfect match for roast lamb, and Californian Cab works equally well. Lamb is flexible however and producers in Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Chianti, and elsewhere, will rightly disagree rather vehemently.
Stockist: Whelehan’s Wines
The Saint Émilion satellite village of Blaye (and neighbouring Bourg) is an excellent place to bargain hunt. Merlot is king here and you can smell the chocolatey plum notes in this solid example — dark purple hue, rounded and full with the tannins only loosely binding the dark blackberry and blueberry fruits in place, blackcurrants dominate the decently long finish. Decanting will open it up a little more.
Stockists: JJ O’Driscolls, O’Donovans, Vintry, Independents.
From a family-run estate located around 30 minutes to the east of Bordeaux in Entre-Deux-Mers. This is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet (unlike most Bordeaux they tell you on back label). Blackcurrant and a touch of blackcurrant leaf on the nose which follow through onto the palate, pleasing chocolate notes and dark fruits on the mid palate and good length - this punches above its price.
Stockist: Dunnes Stores
Dunnes has always been a good source for inexpensive (and expensive) Bordeaux. This is almost luscious, not something you would ever have said about Bordeaux 20 years ago. Merlot dominated with soft dark fruit and chocolate tones, fruity and lively on the palate with creamy blackberry and some light structure and a pleasing cassis finish. I’ve also always liked Dunnes’ Ch. Bois Pertuis for a similar price.
Stockist: Whelehan’s Wines
Frog’s Leap winemaker, John Williams, was in the cellar when the winning red wine at the Judgement of Paris was made — Stags Leap Cabernet. Frog’s Leap has its own following these days and is fairly priced. Still youthful but drinking beautifully, this has bright plum and blackcurrant fruits on the nose, chocolate, black olive and darker fruit flavours on the palate and a long finish.
Stockist: SuperValu
SuperValu has stocked this Margaux for the past few vintages and the 2018 is one of the best I’ve tasted. Dark purple hue reflecting its youth, aromas of cedar, blackcurrants and chocolate with violet hints just peeking out from beneath the oak, full and textured on the palate with bright crunchy fruits and decent length for such a young wine. This will benefit from decanting.
Stockist: Whelehan’s Wines
Another 2018 which is showing its youth but also drinking nicely is this wine — dark purple centre and dark red edges, blackcurrants and vanilla-edged dark fruits with some toasty oak touches. A little firm but with generous ripe fruits to compensate, open and lively. Also watch for Le Conseiller 2015 for €25 which is fruity and lithe with lovely sweet blackberry fruits and good length.
Stockists: Bradleys, Castle Tralee, No. 21 group, World Wide Wines, McHughes, Martins, Vintry, craftcentral.ie - kinnegarbrewing.ie
Kinnegar beers are named after beautiful Kinnegar Beach near Rathmullen in Co. Donegal and have appeared on this page many times although not in the last two years. With one of the best core ranges and a creative flair for seasonals they are consistently reliable and sometimes quirky (e.g. Brett Porter, Session Saison with Rosemary, Lime & Basil Sour)
This Black Rye IPA is the big brother to the excellent Rustbucket Rye IPA with the orange label. Chocolate brown in colour with roasted nut and mocha aromas, smooth and complex palate with spice and roasted malt flavour, and pleasing hop freshness.
