Wine with Leslie: Wines that pair perfectly with chocolate
Chocolate is not the easiest to match with wine but there are a few to consider.
There isn’t much to look forward to these days except perhaps dessert. Like many of you I have not found dieting particularly easy this lockdown so have decided to just wait until restrictions are lifted before I tackle those extra kilos (I’ve put on about five!).
Valentine’s Day is approaching and that means chocolate. Chocolate is not the easiest to match with wine but there are a few to consider. I’m going to show my age now but there is one legendary dessert that I first tasted in around 1994 in the River Café in London near Hammersmith Bridge run by Ruth Rogers and the late Rose Gray. A slice of their Chocolate Nemesis cake with a glass of Recioto della Valpolicella was revelatory and it remains one of my favourite food and wine matches. Recioto has been made for several centuries — unlike Amarone which only appeared in the mid-20th century. Good recioto will have around 90g residual sugar per litre. For comparison Port is usually 110g and Sauternes 120-150g.
The recipe for Chocolate Nemesis is in the blue River Café cookbook (or online) and I found an excellent Recioto to match it with from well-established Veneto producer, Tedeschi, recently imported by Solera Wines. Currently only available from Dublin-based shops but The Corkscrew delivers nationwide and has a treasure trove of wines in stock, almost all of which have appeared on this page at some point.
Banyuls is the other classic chocolate-matching wine and O’Briens stock an excellent one from Gérard Bertrand priced at €24 or so — I also recommend the Bertrand Rivesaltes or Maury at around the same price, all three have rich raisined fruits perfect for matching everything from Brownies to Roses. Meanwhile Bubble Brothers in Cork stock a few Maury from famed producer, Mas Amiel, at different levels of intensity — a half bottle of the standard one costs €22 and is warmly recommended.
Also in Cork, Curious Wines have an interesting selection of sweet and fortified wines including an intriguing sweet Primitivo from Puglia which sounds delicious (on offer at €17) and the ever-reliable Bleasdale Tawny from Australia. Australia was once famous for its fortified wines and Rutherglen Muscat is one of the few styles that carry on this tradition — see below. Chambers are one of the most celebrated producers in this small town in Victoria, they pick late once the grapes appear ‘dimpled’ and the intensely rich wines are aged in sheds with corrugated roofs (not unlike the Estufa rooms in Madeira). All wines below tested with chocolate!
Stockist: SuperValu (from Feb 11)
This is a guest wine for the SuperValu Spanish Wine Sale and reduced from €15. Torres began making this sweet muscat in 1946. Golden in colour, intensely floral aromas with a grapey intensity, creamy sweet with floral and orange zest flavours and lingering sultanas — served chilled. Can just about cope with dark chocolate but best with milk chocolate or perhaps a Chocolate Orange.
Stockist: Aldi
Fletcher’s Port from Aldi punches well above its price point — especially the 40 Year Old Tawny (€39.33) might still be available in some stores — with a more famous name it would cost twice the price. Fletcher’s entry level Ruby is in all stores and has fine rich plum fruits but opt for the LBV if available for its darker chocolate and plum richness and better length with pleasing spice and raisin notes on the finish.
Stockist: SuperValu (from Feb 11)
This is a blend of Cab. Franc, Syrah, Tempranillo and other grapes and is a guest wine in SuperValu next week. Big juicy cherry aromas and soft dark fruits on the palate this has around 8% residual sugar which is just enough to cope with lighter chocolates and for sipping on its own. This richer style of red wine is very much in fashion (cf. Dadá).
Stockists: The Corkscrew - thecorkscrew.ie, Deveneys Dundrum, Nectar Wines, Thomas’s Foxrock.
Newly arrived in Ireland in 2021 this only has a few outlets so far but is well worth seeking out. Made from dried grapes similar to Amarone but unlike the latter Recioto retains significant residual sugar. Rich dark purple colour, aromas of raspberry coulis and blackberry, sweet black raspberry fruit flavours and clean acidity. This was the best overall match and worked best with high cocoa chocolate.
Stockists: Mannings, World Wide Wines, Alain & Christine Kenmare — acwine.ie, Blackrock Cellar, Mitchell & Son, Clontarf Wines, Mortons, Drink Store, Fallon & Byrne, Green Man Wines greenmanwines.ie, wineonline.ie
This is made by Stephen Chambers (6th generation). Tawny in colour with red-gold inflections, aromas of raisins, figs and a hint of mace, intensely raisined fruit flavours but with a kick of freshness — I particularly like this with high cocoa dark chocolate, especially chilli or sea-salt infused versions.
Stockist: M&S
This Special Reserve Port was made for M&S by David Guimaraens, renowned winemaker at Taylors Port — a house I have praised here regularly. This is aged three years in large vats which ensures colour retention and bright fruits. Dark purple-red colour, heady aromas of blackberry and sweet plums with a hint of sweet tobacco, creamy sweet plum fruits with a touch of fig and spice. Perfect match for brownies.
Westmalle Dubbel Trappist Ale, 7% ABV, €3.25
Stockists: Bradleys, Matsons, McHughs, Vintry, Widely available.
With Valentines approaching Belgian Trappist and Abbey beers with high ABV are the perfect match for chocolate. I'm recommending the Dubbel here but the Triple is just as good and some may prefer the darker richer style (and the extra 2% abv). If you can't find Westmalle try the Chimay Blue or the Rochefort 8 or Rochefort 10. Imperial Stout is also recommended.
This pours a dark amber-brown with rich malted aromas and hints of spice and chocolate. Fruity and rich on the palate with caramel and raisin notes and a distinct chocolate and spice note and a decent amount of carbonation to cut through sweeter milk chocolates.
