Wine with Leslie: Beaujolais release day coming up
Mention Beaujolais to most people and they will immediately assume you mean Beaujolais Nouveau, I really wish they wouldn’t. Beaujolais these days is a serious wine region and one of the centres of the 'Natural Wine' movement (many say they invented the concept).
Beaujolais Nouveau is the light, barely fermented wine of the new vintage and the production methods for Beaujolais make it particularly suitable for early bottling. Beaujolais is not the only region to release young wine, in Nantes every Autumn for example you will find ‘Bourru’ — a lightly sparkling, cloudy and delicious half-fermented Muscadet perfect for enjoying with buckwheat (blé-noir) crêpes instead of cider.
Beaujolais Nouveau became a global phenomenon in the 1970s and 80s, and the third-Thursday-in-November release day is still an important date in the global wine calendar. These days, good Beaujolais producers look on Nouveau as a mixed blessing — despairing of the thin light fizzy raspberry juice of many offerings, while still pleased that there is one day a year the whole world looks to their wine region (something no other region can boast). And to be fair Nouveau can be very tasty if made with care — Le Caveau has some excellent offerings, and this year Mary Pawle has brought in some from her Morgon-based producer, Bonne Tonne (see below).
Beaujolais is part of Burgundy and geographically just south of the Mâcon. Whites are made with Chardonnay (and are usually excellent) but reds are from Gamay rather than Pinot Noir. Gamay is unjustly dismissed by some producers but it grows brilliantly on the granite and schist soils of Beaujolais. Given the mad prices of decent Burgundy these days I strongly recommend that you learn the names of the 10 Beaujolais Cru which are often cheaper (and a lot tastier) than even basic Bourgogne AOP.
Beaujolais Cru are from the 10 best villages in the north of the region which has the best soils (granite, sand, schist and more limestone to the north). The Cru I’m sure you do know is Fleurie which is indeed often rather floral and elegant, Moulin à Vent vies with Morgon for the highest prices (and many would argue quality) — but all the villages are interesting. Saint-Amour is the most northerly and can be lighter but is always charming, Chénas is just to the North of Moulin à Vent and equally age-worthy, Julienas and Chiroubles can perhaps a little rustic but in a good way and also watch for Régnié, Brouilly and Côtes de Brouilly.
Stockist: Aldi
Beaujolais Villages is sourced from 38 villages in the Northern part of the Beaujolais Region (the bit closest to the Mâcon) where the hilly terrain and granite soils give a little more body to the wines. This is a good straightforward example at a fantastic price, lots of juicy red fruits and a tiny bit of heft — serve cool. The Aldi Brouilly at €9.99 is also worth a try.
Stockist: Lidl
Brouilly is the south of the Beaujolais region and the largest of the Beaujolais Crus so can be a little unpredictable given that it stretches over six communes (neighbouring Côtes de Brouilly is on higher ground and should be better). This is a nice example of the lighter style with tinned strawberry aromas, admirable juicy soft red fruits on the palate and even some length.
Stockist: O’Briens off-licences nationwide
My apologies, this is indeed over €15 but it is normally around €20 so I had to squeeze it in. Fleurie is easily the best known Beaujolais Cru and does always seem a little more floral and elegant than the more brooding wines of say Moulin à Vent & Chénas. Lively supple red fruits with rose petal and strawberry jam touches, textured and concentrated with a lively elegant cherry finish.
Stockists: Redmond’s of Ranelagh, Le Caveau Kilkenny lecaveau.ie
Chénas is rarely seen in Ireland which is a pity as the wines age well and are underrated. This is from 60-year-old vines with a 20-day Carbonic Maceration ferment and only a touch of sulphur. This is delightful with floral earthy red fruit aromas — cherries, wild strawberries and a touch of herbs - the finish has glacé cherries mixed with supple darker fruits.
Stockists: Fine Wines Off Licences, Drink Store, Nolans Clontarf, Kellers Carry Out, Nenagh.
Mommessin is a long-established (fifth generation) Burgundy Négocient that was once imported by Mitchells but is now with Comans. This pours a light red-purple and has juicy fresh and tinned strawberry aromas, juicy and fruity and quite straightforward so perhaps not for ageing. Best served a little cooler — say 12°C.
Stockists: Ardkeen, Mannings Ballylickey, Little Green Grocer Kilkenny, Vintry, Toons Bridge Macroom & Georges St., marypawlewines.com
This producer is seven generations in the village of Morgon — cru which produces the most Burgundian style of Beaujolais. The granite hill of Côte de Py in Morgon is always excellent and this ripe concentrated wine is a lovely example as is their ‘Les Charmes’ version. Big black cherry fruits, supple and concentrated, textured, lingering and delicious.
Bradleys, Celtic Whiskey Shop, L Mulligan Grocers, James J Fox, Widely Available.
Midleton Very Rare 2020 is out and might be their best out of the last five. As a blend this includes a mix of 1st, 2nd and 3rd fill Bourbon casks with an average age of 13-15 years — this edition has a bit more Pot Still than usual. Aromas of butterscotch & caramel with citrus & pear, ripe fruits on the palate with a touch of orange peel and a big kick of toffee and fudge on the palate.
Also released in recent weeks is a Midleton 1998 Single Cask Single Pot Still (€995) exclusive to James J. Fox on College Green in Dublin which is packed with butter toffies, spice and dried fruits.
