Wine with Leslie: Chilean wines
Chileans (and lovers of democracy) have had reason to celebrate in recent weeks with the landslide passing of a referendum in favour of creating a new constitution for Chile. The previous constitution is largely responsible for the income inequality in the country, and was drafted under the brutal dictator, Augusto Pinochet, who liked to torture and throw his political opponents out of helicopters.
When I visited Chile a few years ago I was pleased to see a statue of former president, Salvador Allende, in front of the Parliament building as a permanent reminder of the fact that Democracy can be fragile. Allende was deposed by a CIA-backed coup on September 11, 1973 and died at his desk.
More than a quarter of all the wine we drink in Ireland is from Chile and for good reason. Chile has the perfect grape-growing climate: their wines are remarkably consistent and good value and driven by varietals so easy to understand. If you want inexpensive zingy Sauvignon Blanc, fruity ripe Cabernets and Merlots and good-value red-fruit Pinot Noir — no other country can compete.
Chile also has excellent value in the mid-tier range with exciting Syrah from newer regions such as Elqui, old vine Pais, Carignan and Cinsault from the south as well as high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon from Maipo — I have a few vintages of Santa Rita Casa Real waiting for me in my cellar.
Selections this week are three new Chilean wines imported by Cork-based Barry & Fitzwilliam and some excellent new Pinot Noirs I tried recently. Veramonte was bought by Gonzales Byass in 2016 and they immediately accelerated the conversion of the vineyards to organic viticulture — the three below all show fine quality fruit crafted into very drinkable wines.
Gonzales Byass have been quite judicious in their purchases over the years and I think I have probably featured all their estates over the years from ultra traditional Beronia in Rioja to the fruity joys of Secastilla made in the Pyrennees foothills and of course the wonders of their Sherry from Tio Pepe to complex lingering Apostoles Palo Cortado.
The Veramonte range is widely available but if you are buying it online via Barry-Fitz’s website winesoftheworld.ie you definitely need to pick up some of the Faively Burgundy they have on special offer. If I had spare cash I would look at the Faively Pommard 2005 for €30 (was €56) and probaby the Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Fuées’ 2000 for €55 (was €78).
Stockists: O’Herlihys St Lukes, Matsons, Luceys Mallow, O’Driscolls Cahersiveen, Coopers Cahir, online via winesoftheworld.ie
Night harvested to preserve acidity, aromas and flavour, cluster fermented in open tanks with native yeasts. This Pinot is quite mature showing a brick-red edge thanks to its age and has classic red fruit and forest floor aromas with juicy red fruits on the palate and a tangy freshness on the finish.
Stockists: O’Herlihys St Lukes, Matsons, Luceys Mallow, O’Driscolls Cahersiveen, Coopers Cahir, online via winesoftheworld.ie
Casablanca is a little too cool for good Cabernet so this is from Colchagua, 90 minutes south of Santiago. Grapes are cold macerated and then fermented in steel tanks on natural yeasts before aging for eight months in neutral oak. Blackcurrant and capsicum aromas, supple and fruity on the palate with hints of chocolate and mint — a bargain.
Stockists: Castle Tralaee, JJ O’Driscolls, World Wide Wines, online via winesoftheworld.ie
The ‘Fat Bastard’ range of wines are always hugely drinkable (‘fat’ being wine speak for rich and juicy). This is from fruit sourced from the cooler climate foothills of the Masif Central near the lovely historic village of Pézenas. Light in colour but with big cherry fruits with raspberry and strawberry flavours and a pleasing lively fruity tang on the finish.
Stockists: O’Herlihys St Lukes, Matsons, Luceys Mallow, O’Driscolls Cahersiveen, Coopers Cahir, online via winesoftheworld.ie
From a sustainable vineyard (under organic conversion) in the cool Casablanca Valley — part barrel-fermented, the remainder in stainless steel with wild yeasts and with 30% undergoing malo-lactic secondary fermentation. Creamy ripe yellow apple aromas with vanilla hints, textured and fruity on the palate with balancing acidity and good length — priced very fairly for the quality.
Stockists: Le Caveau, Bradley’s, Drink Store, Green Man Wines, Liston’s, McGuinness Dundalk, Redmond’s Ranelagh, lecaveau.ie
Bourgogne Passetoutgrains is a rarely seen entry level Burgundy which must contain both Gamay and Pinot Noir (70-30 in this example). From a small family-run estate near Maranges in the Southern Côte-d’Or this is delightfully bright and juicy and packed with dark cherry and blackberry fruits. Don’t let the racy charm fool you, this is quality wine at a great price.
Stockist: Whelehans Wines whelehanswines.ie
Another find by David Whelehan and his team, Marsannay is not far from Dijon in northern part of the Côtes de Nuits and the Deray family have been making wine there since the 1650’s. Bright black raspberry aromas that follow through onto the palate, pleasingly supple and juicy at this stage but with a backbone of structure that suggests it will age nicely.
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Beoir Chorca Dhuibhne Night Porter, 5.1% ABV, 500ml - €3.99
Stockists: Bradleys, Galvins, Matsons, No. 21, Martins, Drinkstore, McHughs, Redmonds, Fine Wines, Carryout Tralee & Killarney, Dingle Centra, World Wide Wines.
I’ve long been a fan of the beers brewed by Adrienne Heslin in her tiny brewery at the back of Tig Bhric in Ballyferriter just beyond Dingle. Two new brews arrived last week — a small compensation for my cancelled trip there in mid-October.
Antipodean IPA is 6% ABV from 100% Munich Malt & dry-hopped with Aussie Galaxy — big malt and hop flavours and a lot of character. Night Porter is 5.1% ABV and my favourite of the two — coffee aromas with a hint of treacle: rich and layered with dark berry fruit notes on the mid palate and a lingering chocolate and dried berry finish.
