Six wines from five Italian regions to enjoy
Over the past few months with no prospect of a trip to sunnier climes I’ve found myself watching a lot of French, Spanish and Italian movies and TV programmes. For some reason it is the Italian ones that have lingered longest - I’ve watched every episode of Inspector Montalbano that BBC4 has released and I’ve rewatched Paolo Sorrentino’s 2013 Oscar winning movie The Great Beauty twice - I warmly recommend it, especially on Blu-Ray where the sumptuous colours pop from the screen.
I’ve written before that if I was ever to move to a wine producing region I think I would choose Piedmont but anywhere in Italy would do, no country has as many indigenous grape varieties and such a mix of styles, and few are so suited to matching with food. From the aromatic velvet and steel red fruits of Barbaresco and Barolo to the generosity and spices of Primitivo and Nero d’Avola and the elegance of Nerello Mascalese and Fiano.
I recommend six wines below from five regions - I felt the need to recommend two Chianti for contrast given that entry level Chianti has improved so much in recent years while the best Chianti Classicos can offer ethereal beauty at a lower cost than most classic European wine regions - you will struggle to find a Bordeaux or a Burgundy to match the quality in the Ser Lapo Chianti Classico below. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is also undervalued in my view and I recommend a nice €15 one below from Whelehans.
As it’s summer a lightness of touch with a bit of backbone is what I look for in white wines and I think Italian white grape varieties can offer this if you choose a little carefully. Yes Pinot Grigio is often rather thin but even with that benighted grape there are exceptions (try Tramin for example). Fiano and Vermentino age better than you think and I have two lovely examples below - buy two of each and lay one down for a year to see if you agree.
Other white grapes like Pecorino (usually from the Marche or Abruzo) and Greco Bianco (Calabria and Campania) can be fragrant and electrifying. Bitter orange flavoured Falanghina from around Mount Vesuvius in Campania is likely the famed grape of Falernian Wine, the 'Grand Cru' most enjoyed by the monied classes in ancient Rome - Pliny favoured the 121 BC vintage but I suspect most shops are sold out of that by now.
Stockists: JJ O’Driscolls, No. 21 Stores, O’Herlihys St. Lukes Cork, Brodericks Shanagarry, Ardkeen, Centra Schull, Martins, Jus de Vine, Vintry,
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Both the red and white in the Da Vero range are organic and vegan and worth trying. The Rosso is a classic soft Nero d’Avola with blackberry and spice flavours while the Bianco is made from Catarratto and has floral and lemon oil aromas, fruity and textured with ripe apple flavours and a dry finish.
Stockists: Spar, Londis, Mace
The Castellani family are a big but reliable producer in Tuscany with wines from most of the sub-regions. Spar and Mace stock a few different ones to try, all solid value at their different price ranges. This has good tipicity despite the low price - cherries and violet aromas, fruity and supple with good acidity and balance. A bargain.
Stockist: Whelehan Wines www.whelehanswines.ie
Abruzzo is on the Adriatic coast with Marches to the north, Lazio to the west and Molise to the south. With a lot of mountains and a long coastline it is one of the many beautiful hidden gem regions of Italy. This was €17 and is great value at €15, warm ripe red fruits, spicy and crunchy with heft and presence but also juiciness - perfect for summer.
Stockists: Vintry, Avoca, Blackrock Cellar, D6, McHughs, Sweeneys, Terroirs,
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Mazzei are a very old wine family (1435) and this wine celebrates their ancestor who wrote the first official document to mention the word Chianti. Garnet in colour with some brown edges (Sangiovese loses colour quickly), cherries, red fruits and spice notes, elegant and textured with grippy darker fruits on the palate but also elegance and subtlety.
Stockists: Jus De Vine, Redmonds, Blackrock Cellar, The Corkscrew,Â
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Antonella Corda founded her winery in just 2010 but she hails from a famous wine family with a stellar reputation. Sardinian Vermentino is riper and richer than that found on the mainland thanks to the warmer climate. This is lemony bright and juicy - scents of creamy citrus and tropical fruits with a lovely salty fresh kick on the finish. I suspect this will age but is gorgeous now.
Stockists: Sheridans Dublin & Galway, Green Man Wines, Mitchell & Son -
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Fiano is arguably Italy’s best indigenous white grape given its ability to age and its layers of flavour. This organic minimal intervention version from a high cool climate vineyard near Avellino shows lots of dried fennel and herb aromas along with rounded textured pear fruits with a touch of washed stones and a pleasing rounded finish.
