Crunch factor: Eight crisp brands put to the test

A real sign of summer is a craving for something salty. The sea air seems to generate it, and the thought of a picnic gets us salivating. Nothing will do but the bursting of salt and spicy flavours, heavy cheese and onion, the noisy crunch between our teeth. Dip into hummus, grated carrot with lemon juice or mayo, thinly sliced cucumber sprinkled with vinegar and salt, poor man’s caviar – baked aubergine mousse (see Gordon Ramsay’s demo on YouTube) - or pea or broad bean purée. Even into melted chocolate.

But what about the fashionable crisp sandwich? A slathering of butter on thick bread sprinkled with crisps, with the top slice pressed down so they can’t escape. Bliss. Crisps make a useful topping too. Crumble them onto soups, a fried, poached or scrambled egg, and serve with crusty bread and a green salad for a simple supper.