Restaurant review: The Wild Honey Inn

THE Wild Honey Inn is a former Victorian hostelry dating back to 1841 when well-heeled gentry regularly decamped to Lisdoonvarna to ‘take the waters’ and restore ailing spirits with spa treatments, and was lovingly restored a decade ago by chef/proprietor Aidan McGrath and his partner Kate Sweeney, who looks after accommodation and restaurant front of house.
Arriving, we dump bags in our room and head out for the briefest of conscience-salving strolls, reasoning a quick circuit of the locality in the teeth of biting gale and spitting overcast skies constitutes sufficient penance for any potential excesses ahead. I’m soon in the bar-dining room, relishing a pint of plain near a roaring fire.