Restaurant review: La Table Saint Crescent

By Joe McNamee

EACH year, around this time, you’ll find more than a few vacationing restaurant critics stepping outside their usual bailiwick to fire home envy-inducing epicurean equivalents of a postcard from abroad, reviewing world-renowned, utterly exclusive temples of culinary fabulousness. El Noma, The Fat Bulli, or whatever happens to be the current world restaurant du jour.