Some of the best wines from northern Italy
This week recommends two juicy reds and three northern whites
I’ve focused a lot on southern Italy so now it is the turn of northern Italy. Piemonte borders France and the complexity of barolo and barbaresco can resemble Burgundy while the regions that border Switzerland, Austria and Slovenia take on a more Germanic and Slavic character. Oceans of Prosecco and pinot grigio are also produced there.
A number of years ago a young Italian student from Lombardy stayed with us for six weeks and organised his parents to send us gifts from his home town. We were expecting perhaps cured meats and cheese but the first gift that arrived was an enormous box of socks, around 200 pairs.
His village was most famous for making socks it turned out. Socks are always useful, but thankfully a rather more interesting box arrived containing a half dozen bottles of Franciacorta and some homemade and commercial bottles of grappa, the equivalent of Burgundy’s Marc. Think Italian poitÃn made from grape must. The grappa was good but the Franciacortas were wonderful and all from small producers known to his family.
Franciacorta is Italy’s best sparkling wine, utilising the same grape
varieties and methods as Champagne — the wines have long lees ageing and bottle-conditioning unlike most Italian sparkling wine which is tank fermented. There are a couple available here. Bellavista is the best known but last week I discovered a new one imported by organic and natural wine specialist Le Caveau in Kilkenny.
1701 is a 10-hectare estate run by the brother and sister team of Federico and Silvia Stefini and is the only certified biodynamic grower in the region. I tasted the wine with wine specialist Rhona Cullinane from Clonakilty, Co Cork, who has been working with the winery for a number of years. Rhona’s enthusiasm for the wine is infectious and it was easy to see why as the wine is gorgeous — see tasting note below. All their wines receive long ageing and minimum intervention and it shows in the glass.
Also this week I’m recommending two juicy reds and three northern whites packed with flavour and made from grapes you probably don’t know although you may have heard of the DOC.
BEST VALUE UNDER €15
Friuli is in the north eastern corner of Italy and borders Austria and Slovenia so the wines often have Slavic and Germanic influences. Friulano (also called Sauvignonasse or Sauvignon Vert) in the right hands can produce aromatic moreish wines and this is a good example. Floral and fragrant, textured stewed pear and soft white fruits on the palate with a hit of crisp bitter almond and citrus acidity on the finish.
Corvina is the main grape used in Valpolicella (and hence Valpolicella Ripasso and Amarone) where it is must be blended with a portion of (rather inferior) Rondinella and Molinara – hence pure Corvina is usually sold as an IGT. Bright juicy red cherry and strawberry red fruits, fruity and supple with a pleasing bitter cherry kick on the finish.
From the Rizzotto family whose vineyards are around 50km from Lake Garda. Soave was once rather maligned but these days you can buy with more confidence – this Garganega/Trebbiano blend zings out of the glass with fresh lemon and light peach aromas, crisp and fresh on the palate with lingering grapefruit and lime fruits.
BEST VALUE OVER €15
Franciacorta is not as well known in Ireland as it should be - at their best the wines can rival grower Champagne. This is made with biodynamic grapes - 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir and has long (30 months) lees ageing. Big aromatic brioche and citrus aromas, nutty and rich on the palate, lingering soft preserved lemon tinged fruits on the finish. On pour and available for purchase in l’Atitude 51.
Gavi is one of northern Italy’s most fashionable whites but it can be rather light in character and overpriced. Not so here as this is a lovely creamy fragrant example. Made with 100% Cortese, this has warm floral and stonefruit aromas, citrus and creamy apricot on the palate, a tangy citrus finish.
Schioppettino is a rare and ancient grape from Friuli, the name derives from ‘scoppiettio’ meaning ‘crackle’ as the wine used to have a slight sparkle. Vibrant purple colour (despite its age), crisp cherry and blackberry aromas, soft red and forest fruits on the palate with a peppery touch and a crunchy, grippy fruit-filled finish.
BEER OF THE WEEK
Whiplash is the gypsy project of Alex Lawes and Alan Wolfe who began borrowing capacity from Rye River Brewing. It’s tough to keep up with them – I’d intended mentioning their intriguing Scaldy Split Ice- Cream IPA but I think it’s sold out by now. Rollover is their take on a session New England IPA (hazy, fruitier style) and it comes in a gorgeous tactile can – for sessions you’ll really need to love citrus.
Pouring a hazy pale gold colour this has grapefruit, pine and citrus aromas (it’s packed with Simcoe, Ekuanot, Citra and Mosaic hops), fruity and full on the palate with a crisp tangy orange-lemon finish.
