Restaurant Review: Ely Bar and Brasserie - Exactly what you want from a modern wine bar

Leslie Williams samples the food and wine at Ely Bar and Brasserie.

I’M OLD enough to remember when wine was only for Christmas day or perhaps when the posh relatives from England came for lunch during the summer holidays. The idea of a wine bar sounded impossibly fancy and the spiritual and cultural opposite of the Irish pub — they were for posing not pleasure.