Restaurant review: Well-bread city dining at Etto in Dublin

“WHO’S getting the bread?” I once sat in the kitchen of a house in the French Mediterranean city of Montpellier and heard this question asked four times in the space of an hour by different members of the same family.

It was mid-morning on a warm Saturday in late autumn and I was sitting at the kitchen table munching bitter-sweet green olives as the lady of the house made mayonnaise, using a wooden spoon and her cousin’s olive oil.

She answered the bread question patiently each time — “worry not, Polig is getting bread after his visit to the barbers!”