Value in Killarney
THAT cynical sentimentalist, Bing Crosby, at his seductive and mocking best, once wondered “How can you buy Killarney?” It may be time to add just a three-word clause to that simple, question ... “How can you buy your dinner in Killarney?”
Some of the prices shown in some of the restaurant windows seem from a different time, when we thought we could afford the earth and borrowed to buy it. Some, even by capital city standards, seem on the pushy side of high. A quick kerb-side tot, a far more active game-changer than you might imagine, suggests that dinner for two, with wine, is staring the €200 mark in the face. If a taxi and a baby sitter are involved as well then brace yourself for something beyond that horizon for a few hours cooing, and nibbling.
Maybe tourists don’t mind — or realise — but a lot of the prices were off-puttingly high. Of course it may be possible to eat less expensively in most of these restaurants — some of them far more dowdy than they might care to admit — but why go to a dance just to watch others dance?
Resolving pricing issues for the Kingdom’s restaurants, most thankfully, is not the business in hand today, rather celebrating one of the really good ones is.
Treyvaud’s is a family-run restaurant — brothers Paul and Mark — with its feet very firmly in the real world on pricing. To confirm this their dining room was full on the night we visited with a mixture of locals and tourists. The purring, full-on atmosphere suggested they were as pleased with their choice as we were.
It was one of those reassuring places you visit from time to time and the absence of — as Bing might have crooned, eyelashes aflicker — stardust did nothing but confirm that there are places to eat in Ireland as good, if not better, than many of the celebrated, star-chef establishments posing as life-enhancing experiences.
Starters set a cracking pace that did not falter. My company for the meal — DW as is usual — began with calamari and was reminded why this often abused dish is almost universally offered in Irish restaurants. Presented in a way that took the dish a long way beyond deep-fried squid, it was augmented by a saffron and citrus rouille. Crispy, tender and pushed well beyond the ordinary, it was lovely.
My opener is a contender for my starter of the year — a simple potato pancake, a good smear of crème fraîche, abundant and succulent smoked salmon served with wild rocket. Sounds simple, but so does the design of the wheel, it was so much better than the sum of its parts. Superb.
DW next chose roast guinea fowl with a cream and mushroom sauce. One of the most expensive Treyvaud’s dishes it came in at under €25 and was excellent and underlined again how our shy attitude to game does us a disservice.
I chose a main course more wintery than springtime — the swallows were weaving outside — but enjoyed it nonetheless. A rich, bolstering plate of game stewed in Guinness. Boar, pigeon, venison and even some rabbit. It was the kind of food you’d need if ever you decide to lead the revolution against whichever oppressor was at hand. It was deeply satisfying.
Desserts — lemon possett with strawberries for DW, and bread and butter pudding with chocolate chips — were lovely, light and sugary too, but the wine deserves a special mention.
An Argentinian red, Malbec Reserve 2010 Don David, Michel Torino Estate at €29.95, all purpley and bite, Felipe Contepomi in a bottle if you like, it was a real cracker.
At the end of the evening chef Paul Treyvaud visited each table and asked if everyone had enjoyed their meal. Sometimes this is as fake as Bing’s Irishness but this was, I think, different. His care and skill could be seen on every plate so why not make sure it worked for guests too? Treyvaud’s is a pleasure to recommend and their fish and game nights have become legendary.
064-6633062, www.treyvaudsrestaurant.com
THE TAB: Dinner for two — three courses with coffee, teas and wine at €29.95 — was €115.45. Tip extra
HOW TO: Lunch Tuesday to Sunday from 12pm to 5pm. Dinner Tuesday to Sunday from 5pm, Mondays from May
Food: 8.5/10
Ambience: 6/10
Service: 8/10
Value: 8/10
Parking: 7/10
Cheer factor: 8/10
