Darina Allen: Try these recipes for stress-free starters for your Christmas feast
Gravlax with Cucumber Ribbon Salad and Mustard and Dill Mayonnaise
As I write, we’ve just had the first really hard frost of the year.
The gardens look absolutely magical this morning, but I’ve been anxiously watching the red berries on the holly trees; hoping against hope that the hungry birds won’t polish off all the berries before I get a chance to pick sprigs to decorate the mantelpiece, or to pop behind pictures on the walls.
Super old-fashioned, I know, but I really, really love holly; and of course, a real Christmas tree.
I’d just begun to scribble out my Christmas list but now I’m off to fill the bird feeders instead, hoping to distract the blackbirds and thrushes from the red and yellow berries.
Christmas is all about memories but let’s keep it simple this year.
The challenge is not to get totally exhausted while creating those magical memories for everyone else.
I can’t help dwelling on how stressful the Christmas season is for already crazy busy and overburdened parents.
For me and probably every one of us, it’s all about planning and lists and the joy of crossing off one job at a time.
It’s certainly much more fun and a heck of a lot less work when everyone gets involved, when each and every member of the family cheerfully takes responsibility for a different element of the festive season.
Even the ‘littles’ can and usually love to contribute making decorations, illustrating place cards, practising singing carols!
This week I’m mulling over possible starters for the Christmas feast. Has to be something light, lovely, tantalisingly fresh and easy to serve.
Our top pick is some delicious briny oysters, light and refreshing, not everyone’s choice, I know, but I love them unadorned, while others will enjoy a spoonful of dressing on top.
How about oysters with nam jim and crispy onions?
It can be prepared ahead and added quickly just as you serve.
Tiny pots of homemade smoked mackerel or chicken liver pâté with crostini or slivers of hot toast are an easy and delicious option - keep the helpings really small and add a little cucumber pickle to the smoked mackerel pâté plate.
I love a few Pedro Ximénez raisins over the top of the chicken liver pâté. Macerate the raisins several days ahead so they are plump and deliciously boozy.
Grape, melon and mint cocktail is a long time family favourite and many of you, I know, have adopted it as part of your Christmas tradition too.
There are lots and lots of suggestions in my Christmas book, but I have four more to tempt you, including two that will also appeal to your vegetarian and/or vegan guests.
How about smoked trout or salmon, cucumber and fennel pickle and watercress or ring the changes with gravlax with cucumber ribbon salad and mustard and dill mayo.
Or how about some of Frank Hederman’s warm smoked salmon. All smoked fish keep well in the fridge for other spontaneous meals over the festive season.
Citrus fruits are at their best at this time of the year, plump, juicy and sweet, so how about a pink grapefruit granita with pomegranate and shredded mint. Light and refreshing before you tuck into several slices of plump turkey or goose with all the trimmings.
I also love the option of a light little salad starter. I’m particularly fond of this kale, fennel and radish salad with a sprinkling of Parmesan or aged Coolea on top. It will also appeal to your vegetarian guests, omit the cheese for your vegan friends, it’ll still be fresh and delicious.
It’s also worth having a few soups in the fridge freezer. I'm particularly fond of celeriac and hazelnut soup or Jerusalem artichoke with avocado and roasted cashew nuts.
Have fun and enjoy the festive season.
Gravlax with Cucumber Ribbon Salad and Mustard and Dill Mayonnaise
Smoked salmon can be substituted for the gravlax if desired.
Servings
8Course
SideIngredients
For the gravlax:
1 or 2 sides of trout or wild Irish salmon if you are lucky enough to get some (approx. weight 1.1kg each side)
4 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill, plus extra to garnish
2 heaped tbsp sea salt
2 heaped tbsp sugar
2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
For the mustard and dill mayo:
1 large egg yolk, preferably free-range and organic
2 tbsp French mustard
1 tbsp sugar
150ml groundnut or sunflower oil
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill
salt and white pepper
For the cucumber ribbon salad:
1 cucumber
75-110g sugar
2 tsp salt
75ml cider vinegar
To garnish
sprigs of fresh dill
chive flowers
freshly cracked black pepper
To garnish:
sprigs of fresh dill
chive flowers
freshly cracked black pepper
Method
For the gravlax:
Fillet the trout or salmon and remove all the bones with tweezers. Mix the dill, salt, sugar and pepper together in a bowl. Place the fish on a piece of parchment paper and scatter the mixture over the surface of the fish. Wrap tightly and refrigerate for a minimum of 24 hours, or better still, up to 2 days.
For the mayo:
Whisk the egg yolk with the mustard and sugar, drip in the oil drop by drop, whisking all the time, then add the vinegar and fresh dill and season with salt and white pepper.
To serve:
Two to three days before, prepare the gravlax. On the day of serving, make the pickled cucumber ribbons. Cut the cucumber in half, then cut into strips using a potato peeler. Put the cucumber into a deep bowl and add the sugar, salt and cider vinegar. Toss gently and leave for at least 30 minutes.
To assemble, unwrap the gravlax, wipe off the dill mixture and cut down to the skin in thin slices. Arrange the drained cucumber strips and the gravlax in a haphazard way on each serving plate. Drizzle with mustard and dill mayonnaise. Garnish with tiny sprigs of dill and chive flowers. Finally, add a little freshly cracked black pepper over each serving.
Ruby Grapefruit, Pomegranate and Shredded Mint Salad
The pomegranate season used to be very short, but now they seem to be available virtually all year round. Some are much paler - look out for the variety called Wonderful. A perfect starter before Christmas dinner - fresh, light and delicious.
Servings
6Course
SideIngredients
2 ruby grapefruit
½ -1 tbsp fresh pomegranate seeds
3 tbsp of shredded fresh mint leaves
1-2 tbsp caster sugar
To garnish
fresh mint or lemon balm leaves
Method
Peel the skin from the grapefruit with a sharp knife so that all the pith is removed. Segment the grapefruit and put it into a bowl. Toss the pomegranate seeds into the bowl. Add the shredded mint leaves, sprinkle with sugar and taste for sweetness. Leave to macerate for at least 10 minutes.
Serve chilled in pretty white bowls or on plates. Spoon a little juice over the salad. Garnish with fresh mint or lemon balm leaves.
Kale, Fennel, Radish and Parmesan Salad
So delicious and fresh tasting - the perfect salad before a festive meal. I also love to use an aged Coolea or Hegarty’s Cheddar cheese.
Servings
4Course
SideIngredients
110g fennel, thinly sliced
8 radishes (preferably French Breakfast), thinly sliced at a long angle
150g green curly kale, stalks included
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp lemon juice
4 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese
salt and freshly ground pepper
Method
Keep the sliced fennel and radishes in iced water for at least 5 minutes. Drain well. Remove the stalks from the kale and shred the leaves very finely (discard the stalk).
Put the kale, drained fennel and radishes into a bowl. Drizzle with the extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice. Grate on some Parmesan with a microplane. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Toss, taste and serve.
Christmas Salad of Pomegranates, Persimmons and Pecans
Such an exquisite combination - a delicious starter or a side salad with cold meats, best made close to enjoying it.
Servings
8Course
SideIngredients
3 ripe Fuyu persimmons (little firm persimmons)
3 ripe d'Anjou or other pears
1 lime, freshly squeezed
seeds from ½ pomegranate
a selection of frissee lettuce, watercress and rocket leaves
1 lime freshly squeezed
75-110g fresh toasted pecans
For the vinaigrette
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar or sherry vinegar
2 tsp Dijon mustard
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
salt and freshly ground pepper
5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Method
First make the vinaigrette.
Mix the balsamic or sherry vinegar, mustard, shallots, salt and pepper. Whisk in the olive oil until emulsified.
Slice the persimmons and pears into slices about 5mm thick. Put into a medium bowl and sprinkle with freshly squeezed lime juice. Add the pomegranate seeds. Toss gently.
Wash and dry the greens, store in a clean towel in the fridge until ready to use.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4
Put the pecans onto a baking sheet in a moderate oven for 5-6 minutes, tossing gently from time to time. Alternatively toast under a grill.
To serve, toss the greens in some of the vinaigrette and arrange on eight plates. Toss the fruit mixture lightly in the remaining vinaigrette. Arrange on top of the greens and sprinkle with the toasted pecans. Serve immediately.
Get ready for the holiday season at the Ballymaloe Organic Farm School, with this half-day wreath-making course led by Iona Murray, Head Floral Designer at Ballymaloe House Hotel.
Learn to work with sustainable materials for wreath frames that can be used during every season.
Iona will also walk through both flower and plant care - covering everything from how to properly trim and treat stems to the best way to place them on the wreath - all with the goal of maximizing the longevity of your design.
Iona will also focus on how to curate a selection of flowers and plants for the holiday season helping you develop the skills needed to identify ideal colour, texture and size combinations for the ultimate decorative piece.
Leave with a beautiful handmade wreath for everyone to enjoy!
Hilary Quinn, senior pastry chef in Ballymaloe House, is back for the third year of The Mince Pie Project.
This year promises to be bigger and better than ever, raising much needed money for Marymount Hospice in Cork through sales of her handcrafted, luxury mince pies.
€1 from every mince pie sold is donated to the charity in December. The project is run in memory of the late Hazel Allen.
Made with the finest dried vine fruits, Ballymaloe orchard apples, the best spices from Green Saffron, plenty of citrus and oh-so-delicious beef suet from Frank Murphy's butchers in Midleton, all wrapped up in a signature flaky pie crust.
Who doesn't love a good mince pie? What started as a small idea in 2023 to send friends some of her signature mince pies, has now turned into an almighty charity bake sale which this year has an ambitious target of donating €2000.
- the-mince-pie-project.myshopify.com
- Check out Instagram for the latest details: @hilary__quinn
