Seafood Made Simple: Saltfish is this soup's secret ingredient

These dried sides of fish I have now come to know as salted ling. Salted ling has been a staple Irish food for centuries, mstly enjoyed in rural Irish fishing communities, nowadays though it’s not as common.

Salting has long been used to preserve fish. Before the invention of refrigeration the fish was filleted, salted and dried. 

Traipsing through the English Market as a young reluctant fish eater, I wondered why anyone would consider eating these petrified fillets of fish strewn out over the counter.

These dried sides of fish I have now come to know as salted ling. Salted ling has been a staple Irish food for centuries, mstly enjoyed in rural Irish fishing communities, nowadays though it’s not as common.

Ling is a fantastic round fish, a considerably cheaper member of the cod family. Its skin crisps fabulously, a beautifully meaty versatile fish. I wouldn’t pass it now if I saw it on a fish counter.

You might not find salted ling in your local fishmongers, but you might find bacalao, its Portuguese cousin. And if you can’t find either don't fret: it’s incredibly simple and super satisfying to make your own.

With spotlessly clean hands, in a non-reactive dish place a layer of salt on the base followed by any kind of fresh fish (i.e. flat, round white fish, but never oily) and cover in another layer of salt. 

After a day or two most of the water will be removed from the fish. Lift the fish from the water-saturated salt and repeat the process of layering with fresh salt in a clean dry container. This will preserve the fish for weeks, if it lasts that long.

This process is a great way to utilise any trim that you mightn’t justify sticking in the freezer. A little salt fish goes a very long way. It can be added to pasta dishes, chowders, fish pies, fish cakes and flaked through salads.

In this weekend’s recipe, salt fish delivers a real depth of flavour to a very familiar leek and potato soup.

Leek, Potato & Saltfish Soup

In this recipe, salt fish delivers a real depth of flavour to a very familiar leek and potato soup.

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 20 mins

Cooking Time

 15 mins

Total Time

 35 mins

Course

 Main

Ingredients

• 3 tbsp rapeseed oil

• 50g Unsalted butter

• 1 small onion, finely diced

• 8 garlic cloves, crushed

• 3 medium sized leeks, washed and sliced

• 1 glass dry white wine

• 650g potatoes, peeled and diced

• 1.3l fish stock (or veg stock or light chicken stock)

• 180g salt fish, soaked

• 300ml cream

• White pepper

• Sea salt

Method

1. 24 hours before you intend on making this soup rinse the salt fish to remove any excess salt that’s on the exterior. Soak in 600ml cold water over night, changing the water once. This allows the fish to rehydrate and removes salt.

2. Heat a heavy based medium saucepan on medium heat. Add the rapeseed oil and unsalted butter. Add the finely sliced onion and crushed garlic. Sweat for 3 minutes stirring regularly, being careful not to allow the pot to catch. (This would ruin the creamy ivory appearance of this soup.)

3. Add the sliced leeks, season with a pinch of white pepper and sea salt. Go easy with seasoning as this point, you can always add a little more if needed after the saltfish has been added. Mix well and place a tight-fitting lid on the pot and sweat for 8 minutes or until the leeks have sweetened and softened

4. Remove the lid and add the white wine. Bring to the boil to evaporate off the liquid.

5. Add the diced potatoes to the pot followed by the stock. Bring to the boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook uncovered for 10-12 minutes or until the potatoes break apart when pressed with a wooden spoon.

6. Add the salt fish to the pot and cook for 3 minutes until the fish is flaking and cooked through.

7. Remove the pot from the heat and add the cream.

8. Blend using an immersion blender or a food processor. Taste to adjust seasoning.

Soup know-how

 

• Soaking the salt fish overnight is imperative to the success of this dish or any dish where you areu sing salt fish. Soaking the fish removes the excess saturation of salt.
• Seasoning gradually is key to building a well flavoured soup, sauce or stew. Season cautiously at the beginning of this soup.
• For a tasty topping, reserve the skins from the potatoes. Wash well, pat dry and coat in a little rapeseed oil and season with sea salt. Roast on a baking tray in a preheated oven at 180°C for 25 minutes.
• The salt fish could also be swapped out for some smoked haddock.