Darina Allen: Three tasty recipes inspired by my visit to Bristol and Wales

Discovering croquettes in Cardiff and bread in Bristol

I’ll be back for more of that salted focaccia ice cream with extra-virgin olive oil.

Every now and then I go on a little skite to recharge the batteries, find new ingredients, and get some exciting new ideas and meet the makers. Ostensibly, my recent trip to the UK was to visit several of our grandchildren in Bristol and Wales so they too joined us on the voyage of discovery.

In Cardiff we found a restaurant called Thomas by Tom Simmons. Among many good things we enjoyed, were mushroom croquettes with chive mayo and Parmesan and a memorable truffled mac and cheese. In Bristol, Marmo on Baldwin St yielded many memorable tastes of deliciously simple food with exquisite ingredients. I particularly remember an oozing burrata covered with freshly grated bottarga (dried mullet roe) and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

The bread and homemade cultured butter came from Field bakery in Bridgwater. So good that we later made a pilgrimage to the source where the heritage wheat for the bread is grown by inspirational farmer and citizen scientist, Fred Pryce. Still at hyper seasonal Marmo with chef owner Cosmo Sterck and his wife Lily we loved the plate of six plump anchovies in a pool of extra virgin olive oil sprinkled with marjoram. Another highlight was fricco (a little rectangle of yeast dough, deep fried into a puffy pillow) with wafer thin slices of pancetta — they were just the starters.

The dry aged pork chop with silky mashed potato, girolles, sweetcorn, and tarragon were also memorable and oh, the chocolate mousse with a blanket of softly whipped jersey cream and a dusting of cocoa powder — I won’t forget the flavour and texture of that in a while. Little French in the Westbury Park area is another gem with an interesting natural wine list and a wonderful choice of edgy French classics.

Don’t miss the queen scallops served simply in the shell with various sauces. Really easy and delicious.

I’m halfway through the article and have only told you about two restaurants of the eight or 10 we enjoyed over five days. On another morning we were up at the crack of dawn to try to beat the queues at Farro. Maybe Bristol’s best bakery in a town that has many brilliant artisan bakeries, many of whom mill their own flour from ancient and heritage landrace wheat varieties for their natural sourdough loaves.

Quite unlike the faux sourdough in many supermarkets, real sourdough has just four ingredients: flour, water, salt, and natural levain. If you get to Farro, there are a whole range of temptations but don’t miss the kouign-amann and a West Country Queen and there are tender madeleines with a dab of icing on top and the spice bun. We also love Hart’s Bakery under the arches by the railway station and also check out The Bristol Loaf and Little Pantry.

There are many wine bars selling an exceptional choice of natural wines (no hangover). Look out for Limeburn Hill wines made by Robin and his wife Georgina on their biodynamic vineyard close to Chew Magna. Georgina shared the recipe for the delicious apple and almond tart that we enjoyed at her kitchen table. If you’re in Bristol on a Sunday morning, wander through The Tobacco Factory Market and Wapping Wharf and swing by Five Acre Farm Shop, then make sure you have lunch at Sonny’s Store on Birch Road. We loved the Cockles Aqua Pazza, and I’ll be back for more of that salted focaccia ice cream with extra-virgin olive oil.

Roast Scallops with Butter & Thyme

recipe by:Darina Allen

Inspired by the scallops at Little French. A sublime way to cook beautiful fresh scallops, the thyme leaves, lemon and butter enhance the sweetness of the shellfish deliciously.

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 5 mins

Total Time

 20 mins

Course

 Starter

Ingredients

• 8 large scallops on the rounded half shell

• 2 tsp thyme leaves, finely chopped

• 1 tsp finely grated lemon

• zest from an organic lemon

• 25g butter

• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• flaky sea salt and freshly ground pepper

• To Serve: lemon wedges

•  

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 250°C/Gas Mark 10.

2. If the scallops are in the shell, open and remove all the contents.

3. Remove the fringe, coral and muscle from the fish.

4. Discard the fringe and muscle. Trim the coral neatly. Place the scallop back in the deep shell along with the corals.

5. Mix the chopped thyme leaves, freshly grated lemon zest, soft butter, and extra virgin olive oil together in a bowl.

6. Spoon a teaspoon onto each scallop. Season with a little salt and freshly ground pepper.

7. Bake in the very hot oven until the butter is sizzling and the scallops barely cooked, 4-5 minutes approx.

8. Serve immediately with a squeeze of lemon juice.

 

Sonny Stores Salted Focaccia Ice Cream with Extra Virgin Olive Oil

recipe by:Darina Allen

Special thanks to Pegs for sharing. A little vanilla extract and chopped rosemary is also delicious added to the ice cream base, it enhances the ice cream even further. A brilliant, inspired way to use up stale focaccia.

Servings

6

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 25 mins

Total Time

 40 mins

Course

 Dessert

Ingredients

• 150g-200g stale focaccia

• extra virgin olive oil

• caster sugar, for sprinkling

• ½ litre milk

• 1½ litre cream

• ¼ tsp vanilla extract or 2 teaspoons freshly chopped rosemary (optional)

• 7-8 egg yolks, depending on size

• 200g caster sugar

• Maldon sea salt

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.

2. Tear the focaccia into thumb-sized pieces, pop onto a baking tray, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle generously with caster sugar.

3. Toss well turning occasionally and bake for 20-25 minutes or until crispy and golden.

4. Cool a little.

5. Heat the milk and cream in a heavy bottom saucepan until it comes to the shivery stage, don’t boil.

6. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks, vanilla extract and sugar together until light and pale. Gradually add the hot liquid, whisking all the time.

7. Return to the saucepan and cook over a medium heat until it thickens slightly, barely coating the back of a spoon (do not allow to boil or the mixture will curdle).

8. Pour out onto a low sided dish, a stainless-steel gastro pan if available.

9. Pour the ice cream mixture over the focaccia on the baking tray, cover and leave overnight. The next day, scoop out the focaccia and blend (not too fine). Mix with the ice cream. Cover and freeze.

10. To Serve

11. Put one or two scoops into a bowl or plate, drizzle with a little really good extra virgin olive oil. sprinkle with a few flakes of sea salt, and serve immediately.

 

River Cottage Apple & Almond Cake

recipe by:Darina Allen

Try this delicious cake which I enjoyed recently at Limeburn Hill Vineyard, just outside Bristol. Georgina gives full credit to River Cottage.

Servings

8

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 45 mins

Total Time

 60 mins

Course

 Baking

Ingredients

• 3 eating apples

• 25g butter

• 25g granulated sugar

• ¼ tsp ground cinnamon (optional)

• For the batter

• 150g butter

• 125g caster sugar

• 2 eggs

• 75g self-raising flour

• 75g ground almonds

• 20cm round springform cake tin.

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 170ºC/gas mark 3. Line the base and sides of the tin.

2. Peel and core the apples, cut them into quarters and then slice each quarter into about 3 pieces.

3. Heat the butter and sugar in a frying pan, then gently fry the apples, stirring occasionally until they get an even colour.

4. When they are nearly tender and starting to caramelise, add the cinnamon (if using) and take off the heat. Cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, add the eggs, then the flour followed by the ground almonds.

5. Scrape into the tin, smooth over, arrange the apples and then spoon over any juices from the frying pan on top. Bake for 40-45 minutes (until a skewer comes out clean).

6. Leave for 20 minutes before unclipping the tin and leaving to cool. Best served warm with cream.