Darina Allen: Gems from a food writers' outing to Derry

‘Lo and Slo’s’ Butter Braised Potatoes

Not sure how many of you have been to Derry, I hadn’t been either but recently we went on a ‘wee dander’ around the walled city courtesy of Tourism Northern Ireland.

For me and other members of the Guild of Irish Food Writers, it was a deeply moving experience to walk around the city on top of the old walls, past the now peaceful Bogside and the Free Derry Wall. 

We had our photos taken in front of the wonderful Derry Girls mural, visited the Tower Museum, it was also full of memorabilia from the brilliant Channel 4 TV series of the same name. 

There was a replica of Mary’s beloved kitchen, the wire chip pan and deep fry, the sofa and cushions, a school uniform from Our Lady Immaculate College and a café actually serving the same cream horns made famous in one of the episodes when Grandpa Joe was busted after he was spied in Doherty’s bakery buying a cream horn when he only went in for an apple turnover!

We walked across the Peace Bridge, opened in 2011 over the River Foyle. We heard the story from Angela Heaney, our deeply knowledgeable guide of how for centuries, the river divided the communities who now, at last, walk freely backwards and forwards over the bridge.

Next day we were treated to a full-on Derry by Fork, food and drink tour. We met numerous chefs, restaurants and café owners; visited Brendan at the iconic Moore on the Quay fish stall; and Pyke n Pommes Café, tucked into an old double-decker bus on the riverbank. 

After delicious fish tacos, we had a selection of Asian fusion appetisers at Umi, and a taste of a delicious Austrian wine made by a young winemaker Andy.

Put it on your Derry list along with Phelim O’Hagan and Serina Macari, his lovely restaurant Artis where we tucked into dinner later. The tear and share brioche with whipped beef fat and marmite butter was worth the detour alone.

We had so many delicious tastes of local food but also exceptional local beverages - Rough Brothers Beer, Walled City Brewery and Gin School, Earhart Gin and the cult style Northland Beer.

Paula McIntyre, the entertaining and much loved radio, TV chef and food writer accompanied us on the tour. 

We met many farmers, artisans, and cheesemakers, including Kevin Hickey from Dart Cheese in the Sperrin mountains who supplied the memorable Sperrin Blue to accompany the Moyletra Moilie heritage beef cooked over fire at the long table dinner in the walled garden at Brooke Hall Estate. 

I also loved the nettle seed crisps from Noreen Vandervelde with ripe fig and cheese.

More good things at Browns in Town, little mini burgers and a juicy cube of streaky pork with burnt apple sauce. 

We popped into Yum, the multi award winning bakery close to the lovely Ebrington Hotel to sample their brownies and The Cottage Craft Gallery where we had tea and the famous scones.

Bet you are feeling full even reading this. So were we, but deliciously so, and so looking forward to spreading the word about the cool culinary delights of Derry! 

Might just have to go back soon for the barbecue school at Brook Hall, or another long table dinner in the walled garden…

Artis' Brioche with Whipped Beef Fat and Marmite Butter

Although not a traditional bread recipe, this is our ‘quick’ brioche we use, as it doesn’t need to be made the evening before, and we use melted rather than cold butter.

Preparation Time

 1 hours 40 mins

Cooking Time

 12 mins

Total Time

 1 hours 52 mins

Course

 Baking

Ingredients

• For the brioche:

• 500g strong flour

• 10g salt

• 10g sugar

• 175g milk

• 125g melted butter

• 3 eggs

• 12g dried yeast ‘or’ 25g fresh yeast

• herbs/caramelised onion/seeds – whatever you choose to flavour your breads

• For the beef fat and butter:

• 200g rendered beef fat

• 150g unsalted Irish butter

• 35g marmite

Method

1. For the brioche:

2. Add all the dry ingredients to a mixing bowl including your choice of flavouring.

3. Take 75g milk and heat until lukewarm to activate the yeast, (20-30°C), add the yeast and stir.

4. In a food processor, blend together the rest of the wet ingredients, add to dry ingredients gradually whilst mixing.

5. Let the mixer knead the bread for 5-10 minutes.

6. Prove in a greased cover container for 30 minutes or until doubled in size.

7. Knock bread back by turning onto a lightly floured surface and kneading the dough gently until nice and smooth.

8. Weigh dough into 60g balls (for individual breads) or 12 x 15g balls (for tear and share style) and roll into smooth balls.

9. Brush rolled balls lightly with egg wash.

10. For individual bread loaves, bake for 8 minutes at 175°C.

11. For tear and share, arrange all the small balls into a large circle on a non-stick pan and bake for 12 minutes at 175°C.

12. For the beef fat:

13. In a food processor, whip all the ingredients together until almost double in size.

14. Serve with sea salt and crispy onions on top

15. Note: Replace the beef fat with butter if you prefer or alternatively for chicken butter, use chicken fat and for bacon butter, use bacon fat.

Lo and Slo’s Butter-Braised Potatoes

New potatoes are perfect for maintaining their shape and creating a sweet, velvety interior. Floury potatoes will break down during the cooking process, these are also delicious but risk burning. Keep an eye on them and give them a gentle, extra little st

Servings

8

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 10 mins

Total Time

 25 mins

Course

 Side

Ingredients

• 2kg seasonal potatoes (any variety)

• 250g salted butter

• a good glug of vegetable or rapeseed oil (neutral flavour with a high smoke point)

• flaky sea salt

• chilli flakes

Method

1. Light your barbecue fire. You want your coals glowing with a white ashy coating, not leaping flames.

2. Slice your potatoes into 4cm pieces and place into a large baking tray.

3. Divide the butter into large pieces evenly on top of the potatoes.

4. Add a glug of the oil.

5. Sprinkle a handful of flaky sea salt on the potatoes. Add chilli flakes to taste and stir to distribute.

6. Allow the potatoes to simmer over the coals, stirring occasionally.

7. Top up with oil if they are looking too dry.

8. When the potatoes become golden brown and toasted, remove from the grill. Allow to cool slightly before serving.

Seasonal Journal

Savour Kilkenny

Savour Kilkenny Food Festival which runs from October 25th to 28th 2024. 

Taking place over the October Bank holiday weekend. The event celebrates the produce, food and culture of the Kilkenny area. 

Rory O’Connell and Rachel Allen will take to the demo stage located on The Parade on Saturday, 26th October at 3pm and Sunday, 27th October at 2pm respectively.

For more information, see www.savourkilkenny.com

Wild and Wicklow 2024

BrookLodge and Macreddin Village in Co. Wicklow are hosting their annual Wild Foods Dinner on Friday, November 22nd 2024, which is now Ireland’s largest wild foods dinner. I can personally vouch for how memorable it is…

So, indulge in a 10-course wild foods tasting menu, crafted to showcase the finest flavours of Wicklow. The menu will be paired with two wines.

For more information, email [e-mail]