Darina Allen: These Tuscan recipes are a reminder of the fragility of our ecosystems

"It’s been months since there’s been a drop of rain, consequently, there were no olives and it’s a terrible year for viticulture. At a rough guess, they will have about a quarter of the usual grape harvest."

Some of Darina Allen's Tuscany finds.

Trundling along on the train from Pisa to Siena, it was a joy to see so many lovely little vegetable gardens alongside the railway track. 

Lots of globe artichoke plants, beans still clambering up wicker teepees, end-of-season sweetcorn and tomatoes, a few grape vines and here and there a couple of olive trees.