Darina Allen: Try these tuna poke and chirshi recipes inspired by my trip to Toronto

Some of Darina's discoveries from Toronto

Food is my subject so everywhere I travel I’m on the lookout for new foods, new flavours, the latest food trends, new (to me) ingredients, and techniques. 

Before I leave, I do lots of research and seek insider information to build a list of ‘not to be missed’ places from street stalls and cafés to high-end fine dining establishments.

The latter are often my least favourite. I’m fast tiring of exotic foamy presentations and skid marks on plates, and ever more ludicrous dining experiences at extortionate guilt-inducing prices. 

On a recent trip to Canada, I ate some delicious things, but one of the most memorable was something called Run over Potato at Miznon, an Israeli sandwich place on Bay Street in downtown Toronto. It came on a gold cardboard tray and looked positively unappealing.

It turned out to be three or four, first steamed then roasted, potatoes squished between two sheets of parchment on a smear of crème fraîche with garlic, spring onions and dill, drizzled with extra virgin oil and sprinkled with freshly cracked pepper and flaky sea salt. 

It couldn’t have looked less appetising but it was still warm and super delicious.

At the Toronto International Festival of Authors in the Harbourfront Centre, I quizzed Mark Schatzker, the food writer from the Globe and Mail about Toronto food. 

He was adamant that I must not leave town without tasting butter chicken roti (check out Roti Mahal), sushi pizza and bubble tea, if that’s your thing (I don’t love it).

I was on my way to Calgary to speak at the Terroir Talk Symposium but my principal reason for visiting Toronto was to catch up with my friend Bonnie Stern who owned a cooking school in Toronto for many years.

We’ve shared many bonding moments together, including the rare experience of going down the chute in the emergency evacuation of an aeroplane at Narita airport in Japan in the 1990s. 

We haven’t seen each other for over a decade so had lots of catching up to do. 

Bonnie, a wonderful cook and a beloved teacher, took me to many of her favourite haunts including Honest Weight, a super little café that serves spanking fresh fish, and Soma chocolate maker who makes exquisite chocolate from ethical sources.

We also visited Downsview City Farm and had a tour with Ran Goel of the collective of CSA Farms in the suburbs which grows beautiful organic produce to nourish the local community. A really inspirational project that could be replicated in any city.

Lots of delicious food included dinner at a Kiin, a much loved Vietnamese restaurant and another memorable meal at Restaurant 20 Victoria where chef/owner Chris White and his team were over the moon having just been awarded a Michelin Star the previous night. 

We were joined by Bonnie’s daughter Anna Rupert who was co-author of Bonnie’s latest book with the appealing title ‘Don’t Worry, Just Cook.’ 

It’s full of gems for the sort of home-cooked food we all love including Chirshi, a multi-purpose pumpkin purée just in time for squash and pumpkin season. 

A brilliant standby base for many good things. Here are some recipes to whet your appetite.

• All recipes from Don’t Worry, Just Cook by Bonnie Stern and Anna Rupert (Appetite, Random House)

Bonnie Stern's Tuna Poke

"Poke, originally from Hawaii, is now popular around the world. There are all sorts of poke with different fish (raw or cooked) and sauces. My version is a riff on the famous ahi tuna poke dip at the Kahala Resort in Honolulu, where I first tried it."

Servings

8

Preparation Time

 30 mins

Total Time

 30 mins

Course

 Main

Ingredients

• 115g mayonnaise

• 1 tbsp fresh lime juice

• 1 tbsp soy sauce

• 50g coarsely chopped fresh coriander

• 3 tbsp coarsely chopped pickled ginger

• ½ tsp toasted sesame oil

• 350g raw sushi-grade tuna, cut into small cubes

• ½ ripe avocado

• To serve:

• Little Gem lettuce cups

Method

1. Combine the mayonnaise with the lime juice and soy sauce, followed by the coriander, ginger and sesame oil.

2. Add the tuna and refrigerate until ready to serve.

3. Dice the avocado and gently stir into the poke just before serving.

4. Serve in lettuce cups.

Bonnie Stern's Chirshi

"A perfect vegetarian/vegan appetiser. it also makes a great vegetable side dish. Serve it as is, or sprinkled with pumpkin seeds, coriander, pomegranate seeds."

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 40 mins

Total Time

 55 mins

Course

 Side

Ingredients

• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• 1 tbsp tomato paste

• 1 tsp Kosher salt plus more to taste

• 450g butternut squash, peeled and cut into 4cm chunks

• 450g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 4cm chunks

• 1-2 garlic cloves, grated

• 85g pure tahini

• 2-3 tbsp fresh lemon juice, to taste

• 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves

• 1 tsp–1 tbsp harissa or other hot sauce plus more to taste

• ½ tsp smoked or sweet paprika

• freshly ground black pepper

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 190°C and line a baking tray with parchment paper. In a small bowl, combine the olive oil with the tomato paste and salt. Place the squash and sweet potatoes on the lined baking tray and toss well with the olive oil mixture to coat. Roast for 30-40 minutes or until tender and lightly browned. Let cool on the baking tray. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl and mash with a potato masher or fork if you like it slightly chunky like I do, or purée coarsely or until smooth in a food processor.

2. Mix in the garlic, tahini, lemon juice, thyme, harissa and smoked paprika. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Spread on a platter and serve as is, or sprinkle with pumpkin seeds, coriander, pomegranate seeds or any ingredients mentioned in the introduction.

Hot Tips:

The New Ballymaloe Bread Book

The New Ballymaloe Bread Book will be launched on Thursday, 26th October 2023. (Look out for recipes here next week!) 

To celebrate publication, I’ll be doing various bread demonstrations around the country – come and join me if you can and spread the word:

• Savour Festival, Kilkenny - Saturday, 28th October - savourkilkenny.com
• Samhain Festival, Meath - Saturday, 4th November - boynevalleyflavours.ie/samhain2023
• Dublin Cookery School – Wednesday, 8th November - dublincookeryschool.ie
• Waterman House, Belfast - Thursday, 16th November - waterman.house

2023 Gluten Free Roadshow, Cork

The 2023 Gluten Free Roadshow will take place on Sunday, 22nd October at Rochestown Park Hotel in Douglas.

Includes a 2-course gluten-free lunch, talks, and cookery demonstration by award-winning chef Eunice Power. There will also be exhibition stands, good bags, spot prizes and more…

• For more information, see coeliac.ie/gluten-free-roadshow-2023