Darina Allen: Easy Indian recipes for everyday cooking, from curry to rice pudding

Tantalising Indian food to whet your appetite from chef Sunil Ghai’s first book

All recipes are from Spice Box: Easy, Everyday Indian Food by Sunil Ghai published by Penguin

Readers of this column will know about my love affair with India and the enormous variety of tantalising Indian food. Consequently, I was overjoyed to be asked recently to launch Indian chef Sunil Ghai’s first book Spice Box: Easy, Everyday Indian Food.

There’s a bit of history here: my first taste of Sunil’s food when he was cooking in Ananda in Dundrum in the early 2000s stopped me mid-sentence. I was curious, who exactly was the chef behind these delicious flavours, then Sunil Ghai emerged from the kitchen… Up until then, Indian food on restaurant menus on this side of the world seemed far from authentic.

For decades I’d travelled widely all over the sub-continent, loving the variety of food from the street stalls and dhabas to restaurant and hotel kitchens. Most of all, I loved the home cooking when we were fortunate enough to be invited into people’s houses. I’ve eaten Sunil’s food on many occasions since then and have invited him to teach at the Ballymaloe Cookery School and to participate in the Ballymaloe LitFest.

Over and over again, I encouraged Sunil to write a book to share his cooking, not just with his many devotees but with a wider audience who would love to be able to cook authentic Indian food, particularly the kind of home cooking often with a contemporary twist that Sunil serves at his restaurants Pickle and Street in Dublin and Tiffin in his adopted town of Greystones, Co Wicklow.

Sunil learned how to cook by watching his mother prepare home cooked meals for her extended family. Hungry to learn more he worked in restaurant kitchens of the Taj and Oberoi hotels in India and eventually made his way to Ireland to collaborate with another giant of authentic Indian cuisine, Asheesh Dewan of Jaipur and Ananda fame. Sunil is a master of spices, his food and culinary skills have earned him many awards over the years. In 2009, Sunil was Food & Wine’s Chef of the Year and again in 2013, he was chosen as Chef of the Year by the Restaurant Association of Ireland, the first Indian chef to have been awarded that accolade in Ireland.

Meanwhile, Sunil and his wife Lena, were super busy running three restaurants. Penguin publishers commissioned the book in 2020. Now at last, due to the great measure of Kristin Jensen who chased Sunil around busy kitchens standing between him and the scales to capture his spontaneous cooking, she tested and retested the recipes until they were happy that readers would be able to recreate Sunil’s exact flavours in their kitchens with ingredients they could easily source and might even have in the kitchen cupboard. Spice Box is the result, packed from cover to cover with recipes that you too are going to love. Here’s a taste to whet your appetite.

All recipes are from Spice Box: Easy, Everyday Indian Food by Sunil Ghai published by Penguin

Mulligatawny Soup (Dal Shorba)

recipe by:Sunil Ghai

This is practically the national soup of India. There is so much goodness in a bowl of soup. Keep this vegetarian by leaving out the cooked shredded chicken at the end.

Preparation Time

 10 mins

Cooking Time

 40 mins

Total Time

 50 mins

Course

 Starter

Ingredients

• 200g dried red lentils

• 50ml vegetable oil

• 15-20 black peppercorns

• 2 star anise

• 1 fresh or dried red chilli, cut in half

• ½ tsp fennel seeds

• ½ tsp cumin seeds

• 100g sliced fresh pineapple

• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced (70g)

• 1 small carrot, thinly sliced (50g)

• ½ green apple, cored and thinly sliced (60g)

• 1 fresh green chilli, halved lengthways

• 1 tbsp grated or finely chopped fresh ginger

• 1 ½ tsp fine sea salt

• 50g fresh or desiccated coconut

• 2 tbsp Madras curry powder

• 1 ½ tsp ground turmeric

• cooked basmati rice

• cooked shredded chicken (optional)

• 4-6 tbsp coconut milk

• handful of chopped fresh coriander

• 1 lime, cut into wedges

Method

1. Measure out your spices into two separate bowls: one bowl for the whole spices and one for the Madras curry powder and turmeric for the soup.

2. Prepare and measure out all the remaining ingredients before you start cooking so that everything is ready to go and the spices don't burn.

3. Cook the lentils. Soak the lentils in just enough water to cover them for 20 minutes.

4. Cook the whole spices. Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Add the peppercorns, star anise, red chilli, fennel seeds and cumin seeds and cook for 1 minute, until fragrant.

5. Make the soup. Add the pineapple, onion, carrot, apple, green chilli, ginger and salt and cook for 5 minutes. Add the soaked lentils (including their soaking water) along with the coconut, curry powder and turmeric and 800ml water.

6. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover the pan and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the lentils, fruit and vegetables are all completely soft.

7. Blend everything, including the whole spices and the red and green chilies (although you can take the chilies out at this stage if you prefer), with a hand-held blender until smooth. Stir in another 200-400ml water to thin the soup - it shouldn't be too thick.

8. Put a little rice and/or chicken (if using) in the bottom of each bowl, then pour over the soup and add an extra spoonful of rice on top. Garnish with a drizzle of coconut, milk and chopped fresh coriander, then squeeze over some lime juice. Let each person stir everything together in their own bowl.

Fish Cakes with Masala Mayo (Machhi Ki Tikki)

recipe by:Sunil Ghai

These fish cakes are a fusion of Indian and Thai food and are the perfect way to use up leftover cooked fish. I usually use cod, salmon or even stone bass, but any fish will work.

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 30 mins

Total Time

 45 mins

Course

 Main

Ingredients

• 1 cucumber, peeled, deseeded and thinly sliced

• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced

• 6 stems of fresh dill, roughly torn

• 4 tbsp white wine vinegar

• 2 tsp grated of finely grated chopped fresh ginger

• 1 tsp fine sea salt

• 500g Rooster or Maris Piper potatoes, peeled

• 1 tbsp vegetable oil

• 1 fresh green chilli, finely chopped

• ¼ fresh red chilli, finely chopped

• 1 tbsp grated or finely chopped fresh ginger

• 1 tsp paprika

• ½ tsp fennel seeds, ground in a pestle and mortar

• pinch of ground turmeric

• ¼ tsp fine sea salt

• squeeze of lemon juice

• 2 tbsp mayonnaise

• 1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for frying

• 1 tbsp grated or finely chopped fresh ginger

• 1 ½ tsp grated or finely chopped garlic

• 1 ½ tsp fennel seeds

• ½ tsp nigella seeds

• ¼ tsp ground turmeric

• 50g shop-bought Thai red curry paste

• 300g leftover cooked fish

• handful of chopped fresh coriander

• 5-10 fresh mint leaves, chopped

Method

1. Measure out your spices into two separate small bowls: one bowl for the paprika, fennel, turmeric and salt for the masala mayo and one for the fennel seeds, nigella seeds and turmeric for the fish cakes.

2. Prepare and measure out all the remaining ingredients before you start cooking so that everything is ready to go and the spices don’t burn.

3. Mix together the cucumber, red onion, dill, vinegar, ginger and salt in a small bowl and set aside for 30 minutes to lightly pickle while you make the fish cakes, then drain.

4. Cook the whole potatoes in a saucepan of boiled salted water until cooked through but still holding their shape. Drain and set aside to cool, then grate using the large hole on the box grater.

5. Heat the oil in a small frying pan over a medium heat, then remove the pan from the heat. Add the green and red chillies, ginger, ground spices, salt and a squeeze of lemon, then transfer to a bowl and allow to cool before stirring in the mayonnaise until well combined. Chill in the fridge while you finish making the fish cakes.

6. While the potatoes are boiling and cooling, heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the ginger, garlic, fennel seeds, nigella seeds and turmeric and cook for 1 minute, then add the curry paste and stir to combine. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 3-4 minutes more, stirring constantly so that the paste doesn’t stick or burn.

7. Flake the cooked fish into a large bowl, using this opportunity to make sure there are no bones. Add the spiced curry paste, grated potato and fresh herbs and mix until well combined. Divide into eight portions and form each one into a cake roughly 5cm across.

8. Heat some oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Working in batches if necessary, so that you don’t crowd the pan, add the fish cakes and cook for 5 minutes on each side, until golden brown and heated through (remember, the fish and potato are already cooked).

9. Serve the fish cakes with a spoonful of the masala mayo, a pinch of flaky sea salt on top and some pickled cucumbers and red onions on the side.

Egg Curry (Anda Curry)

recipe by:Sunil Ghai

Many years ago, the food writer Alex Meehan asked me if I’d serve egg curry, as he had fond memories of his father making it. I thought it was such a simple dish that no one would want to order it, but I put it on my menu just for him.

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 45 mins

Total Time

 60 mins

Course

 Main

Ingredients

• 4-8 eggs

• pinch of ground turmeric

• pinch of paprika

• 1 tbsp vegetable oil

• 50ml vegetable oil

• 3-4 green cardamom pods

• 2 cloves

• 2 bay leaves

• 1 fresh or dried red chilli, halved lengthways

• ½ tsp cumin seeds

• 2 large red onions (300g), finely diced

• 2 tsp fine sea salt

• 1 fresh green chilli, halved lengthways

• 1 tbsp grated or finely chopped fresh ginger

• 1 tbsp grated or finely chopped garlic

• 1 ½ tbsp ground coriander

• 1 ½ tsp paprika

• 1 tsp ground cumin

• 1 tsp ground turmeric

• pinch of ground mace or nutmeg

• 2 large ripe tomatoes (200g), chopped

• 1 tbsp tomato purée

• 40ml cream

• 1 lemon wedge

• handful of chopped fresh coriander

• pinch of garam masala

Method

1. Measure out your spices into four separate small bowls: one bowl for the turmeric and paprika for the eggs; one for the whole spices; one for the ground coriander, paprika, cumin, turmeric and mace or nutmeg for the curry; and one for the garam masala to finish.

2. Prepare and measure out all the remaining ingredients before you start cooking so that everything is ready to go and the spices don’t burn.

3. To hard-boil the eggs, place them in a medium saucepan and add enough cold water to cover them by about 1cm. Bring the water to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 6 minutes for a softer yolk and 7 minutes if you like it to be cooked through. As soon as they are cooked, drain and cool them rapidly under cold running water before peeling and leaving whole.

4. Lightly score each peeled hard-boiled egg three or four times on one side with a small sharp knife, then place in a bowl with a pinch of turmeric and paprika and toss to coat. Heat the tablespoon of oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the eggs and cook for 2 minutes just to give them a bit of colour and to crisp up the outside a bit. Set aside.

5. Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Add the cardamom pods, cloves, bay leaves, red chilli and cumin seeds and cook for 1 minute until fragrant.

6. Add the onions and salt and cook for 5-8 minutes, until softened. Add the green chilli, ginger and garlic and cook for 2 minutes more.

7. Add the ground spices and 50ml water so that the spices don't burn. Cook for 1 minute, then add the tomatoes and cook for a few minutes more, until they've started to soften. Stir in the tomato purée and cook for 1-2 minutes to cook out its raw flavour, then pour in another 400ml water and stir to combine.

8. Simmer for 15-20 minutes, until the sauce has reduced and thickened a little, then blend briefly, including the whole spices and halved chillies, with a hand-held blend blender. You don't want it to be completely smooth; there should still be plenty of texture. This curry is also quite thin because it's traditionally served with lots of rice.

9. Stir the cream into the curry, then add the eggs and simmer for a few minutes, until they've heated through. Add a squeeze of lemon, then fold in the chopped fresh coriander and a pinch of garam masala. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the curry to settle for 5 minutes.

10. Serve with plain boiled basmati rice and warm naan (shop bought or homemade).

Indian Rice Pudding (Kheer)

recipe by:Sunil Ghai

Whenever there is a celebration, festival or birthday in my family there will be rice pudding (kheer), so it always makes me think of the feasts we had at home.

Preparation Time

 30 mins

Cooking Time

 50 mins

Total Time

 1 hours 20 mins

Course

 Side

Ingredients

• 75g basmati rice

• 40g grated fresh coconut, dedicated coconut or dried coconut flakes

• 40g butter or ghee

• 4 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed open

• 50g sultanas

• 20g chopped pistachios

• 2 litres full-fat milk

• 90g caster sugar

• 80g almond or cashew nuts

• tiny pinch of saffron (10 threads)

• few drops of rosewater (optional)

Method

1. Prepare and measure out all the spices and ingredients before you start cooking so that everything is ready to go.

2. Rinse the rice a few times in a big bowl of water. After rinsing, leave the rice to soak for 30 minutes, then drain. Rinsing the rice like this gets rid of any impurities.

3. If you're using desiccated coconut or dried coconut flakes instead of fresh grated coconut, you need to soak it in a small bowl of hot water first.

4. Melt the butter or ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan or casserole over a medium heat. Add the cardamom pods and drained rice and stir gently to coat the rice in the butter, then add the sultanas, almonds, pistachios and milk. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for about 40 minutes.

5. Add the sugar, nut butter, coconut (either the fresh grated coconut or the soaked and drained dried coconut), saffron and rosewater (if using). Simmer gently for another 10 minutes, stirring every now and then so that it doesn't stick to the bottom of the pan now that you've added the sugar. You want the rice to be completely soft and broken down in this pudding.

6. This rice pudding can be served hot or cold, with a handful of chopped pistachios, cashews or walnuts and a few saffron threads scattered on top.

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