Darina Allen: Summer salads to keep sunshine on your plate

Plus how to perfect the ultimate summer crowd-pleaser

Now that the Irish tomato season is underway, it is a great time for really good tomato salad.

Understandably, this column is always written a little ahead of publication, so chances are it’ll be raining today but after all the glorious weather we’ve been having, there have been lots of requests for summer grills and salads including several for perennial favourites such as potato salad and, now that the Irish tomato season is underway, a really good tomato salad.

We have 16 varieties this year including some ‘new’ heirlooms, notably Northern Lights; Green Zebra, San Marzano, Golden Sunrise, Yellow Submarine, Sartroloise, Tigerella, Brandy Wine, Black Russian, Marmande, Mirabelle Blanche, Andine Cornue, Stripe and Dzintare Lasite.

Early season tomatoes have not as yet developed the intense sweetness they’ll have in late August. Choose the ripest you can find, and cut them in haphazard shapes. Season well with flaky sea salt and freshly cracked pepper. I like to add freshly squeezed lemon juice, and then drizzle them with runny honey. Toss gently so they are well coated and garnish generously with lots of fresh mint or basil leaves. We grow several types of basil: Genovese, purple opal, lemon, Greek and perky Vietnamese, but the first three are best for a tomato salad. 

Taste and tweak if you fancy. This makes a delicious starter salad or an accompaniment to either fish, meat, feta or mozzarella or a selection of vegetarian salads. The secret of a really delicious potato salad, the ultimate summer crowd-pleaser, is to cook the potatoes in their jackets in really well-salted water. Peel and coarsely chop while still warm. Spread out on a wide platter, season ‘mindfully’ with sea salt and freshly cracked pepper.

Sprinkle with lots of freshly chopped parsley and green scallions. Drizzle with French dressing. The secret that Myrtle Allen taught me is to toss the potatoes in French dressing while still warm. Toss gently but thoroughly. This will be delicious just as it is but if you feel that a richer, creamier, potato salad will work better with your meal, add some mayonnaise which has been loosened with water so it’s easier to fold through.

If you have a lovage plant in your garden, add some, and it will contribute a delicious, fresh celery flavour. Once again, taste. The potato variety also matters, some favour a waxy variety which makes a ‘tidier’ potato salad but we’ve always favoured British Queens or Kerr’s Pinks at this time of year. Of course, you can add many other good things to the basic potato salad: cucumber pickle, smoked mackerel and dill, hard-boiled eggs, chorizo. Vegans could substitute a classic mayo with tahini.

Potato, spring onion and nasturtium salad

recipe by:Darina Allen

For a classic potato salad, omit the nasturtium and substitute lots of spring onion and parsley instead.

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 5 mins

Cooking Time

 20 mins

Total Time

 25 mins

Course

 Side

Ingredients

• 900g (2lbs) freshly cooked potatoes - diced, allow about 1.1kg (2 1/2lbs) raw potatoes

• 1 tbsp chopped parsley

• 1 tbsp chopped chives or scallions or 2 teaspoons chopped onion

• 110ml (4fl oz) French Dressing

• 110ml (4fl oz) homemade Mayonnaise

• salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

• lots of nasturtium leaves and red, orange and yellow nasturtium flowers (75-110g/3 – 4oz)

Method

1. The potatoes should be boiled in their jackets and peeled, diced and measured while still hot. Mix immediately with onion, parsley, salt and freshly ground pepper.

2. Stir in the French dressing, allow to cool and finally add the mayonnaise. Toss in the coarsely chopped nasturtium leaves and two thirds of the flowers. Scatter the remaining nasturtium flowers on top of the salad.

3. Best served fresh but keeps well for about 2 days.

4. Note: This potato salad is also delicious without mayonnaise. Potato salad may be used as a base for other salads, e.g. add cubes of chorizo, cooked mussels or cockles or even diced cucumber.

Heirloom tomato salad with basil, olive oil and honey

recipe by:Darina Allen

An easy and tasty salad — perfect for during Irish tomato season.

Servings

6

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Total Time

 15 mins

Course

 Side

Ingredients

• 8 very ripe heirloom tomatoes

• salt and freshly ground pepper

• 2 tbsp lemon juice

• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• 1 tbsp pure Irish honey

• 10-12 leaves of fresh basil

Method

1. Cut the tomatoes into a variety of shapes - 5mm (1/4 inch) thick slices or quarters or eighths depending on size. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper.

2. Squeeze the lemon juice over the tomatoes. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and honey. Add the 'torn' basil leaves, toss gently.

3. Taste for seasoning and correct if necessary.

Chicken Shawarma flatbreads with yoghurt

recipe by:Darina Allen

Perfect for entertaining.

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 20 mins

Cooking Time

 45 mins

Total Time

 1 hours 5 mins

Course

 Main

Cuisine

 Middle Eastern

Ingredients

• For the chicken

• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• 1 tsp sumac

• 1/4 tsp roasted and ground cumin

• juice of 1/2 lemon

• 2 garlic cloves, crushed

• 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves

• 1/2 tsp chilli flakes

• 6 boneless chicken thighs

• For the yoghurt raita

• 200g (7oz) labneh or thick natural yoghurt

• 1 tsp sumac

• juice of 1/2 lemon

• 1 small tsp honey

• 1 tbsp fresh mint, leaves chopped

• To Serve

• 4 flatbreads

• 1 little Gem lettuces

• 1/2 cucumber, cubed

• sumac

• 2 tbsp pomegranate seeds

• fresh coriander, chopped

Method

1. Combine all of the ingredients for the chicken in a bowl. Toss until coated, then marinate for at least 15 minutes or a couple of hours if possible.

2. Whisk all of the ingredients together for the yoghurt raita. Season with salt and pepper. Taste and tweak if necessary…

3. Preheat a barbeque or griddle pan to a high heat. Cook the chicken for 5-6 mins on each side until nicely charred on the outside but juicy in the centre.

4. To serve, grill the flatbreads for a minute or two on each side. Slather each generously with yoghurt raita, sprinkle on a quarter of the cucumber dice.

5. Add a piece of chicken and sprinkle with sumac, pomegranate seeds and fresh coriander. Fold over and serve immediately.

HOT TIPS

Crawford Art Gallery Exhibition – Meat & Potatoes

An extensive programme of food related events has been devised by Ellie O’Byrne and food historian Regina Sexton with Anne Boddaert, Ellen Whelan and Eimear Marley of Crawford Art Gallery. Visitors will be offered talks, tours and some surprising activities such as potato growing, creating edible art and viewing Crawford Collection inspired biscuits to name a few. The exhibition is now open and will run until early November.

• For more information, see www.crawfordartgallery.ie

Vitamin Sea Festival – Ardmore

A date for your diary…

Taking place on September 16-18, the Vitamin Sea Festival includes exciting collaborations with the local food and beverage industry, guest hosts, outdoor activities such as sea-side excursions, local craft markets and taste trails, including a local produce market plus much more to celebrate the vibrant coastal community within Tramore.

Tickets go on sale on August 2.

• For more information, see www.vitaminseafestival.ie