Wine with Leslie: pop those corks loudly — champagne, cava, prosecco recommendations to ring in the new year
Picture: Nick Bradshaw
So 2020 is almost over and I don’t think any of us will miss it — the sound of Champagne corks popping at midnight on December 31 will have extra resonance.
Of course, wine weirdos like me will usually tell you that to gently ease the cork out so the only sound you hear is a ‘pssstt’ (a 'gentle sigh') as this helps keep the fizz intact. Feck that — I’m looking for as loud a pop as possible this year.
When I began writing this column in 2012, sparkling wine was a simple choice between Champagne, Cava and Prosecco with only the odd bottle of Crémant de Loire or Crémant de Bourgogne available. There is more choice now although prices are noticeably higher thanks to Fine Gael’s Michael Noonan putting an extra €2 on each bottle of wine and an extra €4 on sparkling wine.
These days there is a lot more Cava and New World fizz and a whole range of Pet-Nat wines (pétillant naturel) which are often unfiltered and ‘natural’. Thanks to their lower fizz and simple closure these are taxed as still wine. One of the more intriguing and best pét-nats I tasted this year was from Poland, given to me by Sommelier Marcin Kotwicki, but there were many others including Casa Belfi below.
As you probably know we pay more tax on wine than any other country in Europe but significantly more on sparkling wine — for no other reason than to tax celebration and perhaps to relieve religiously inspired guilt. I realise it would take some bravery for a Minister for Finance to remove this cruel tax on weddings and celebration despite the fact tht it defies logic.
My suggestions below include a few less expensive choices — large retailers have lots of fizz bargains as do supermarkets so shop around. O’Briens have Taittinger NV at the rock bottom price of €40, their own Beaumont des Crayères at €30 and Croser’s NV from Australia at €23. Tesco Finest Champagne is €35 and Supervalu’s Pierre D’arcy Champagne at €20 and Mumm NV at €41. JJ O’Driscolls, Curious Wines and Red Nose Wines have the excellent Duval Leroy at around €40.
So I hope all Irish Examiner readers have a happy and healthy 2021. I’ll raise my glass to you all on December 31 and also to two wine friends that I lost this year to cancer — writer, Tomás Clancy, and Claire O’Boyle Gallagher of Green Man wines. Here’s to you all.
The Loire Valley in Northern France is a large producer of traditional method sparkling wine and always great value. Watch for Saumur and Crémant de Loire but especially keep an eye out for sparkling Vouvray — my favourite white wine appellation in the region. Made from 100% Chenin Blanc, this has floral creamy croissant aromas, citrus and ripe apple with pristine acidity and lingering tart apple notes.
The Italian Government gave DOC recognition to pink Prosecco recently which must be made with Glera and Pinot Noir. This is 85% Glera and 15% Pinot — floral peachy red fruit aromas, lively, creamy tropical tinged fruits flavours, a soft lively mousse and tangy grape skin finish. Bubble Bros have a large selection of fizz to befit their name — yet another reason to visit the English Market.
This is Prosecco but not as you know it — organic, biodynamic, unfiltered, zero added sulphur, and as untouched as wine can get. The low sulphur allows a little more funk and over-ripe pear flavours which mingle with yellow apple and even apple pie notes. The mousse is lighter than in a Spumante but this has a gorgeous drinkability and zingy intensity.
Franciacorta is the other sparkling wine region in Northern Italy which makes a traditional method wine using the same grapes as Champagne. This is made with biodynamic grapes — 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir and has long (30 months) lees ageing. Big aromatic biscuity citrus aromas, nutty and rich on the palate, lingering soft preserved lemon tinged fruits on the finish.
This has long been one of my go-to champagnes as it is one of the more affordable Grand Marques. O’Briens have this at €55 but €60 is the more usual price. A little lower dosage than some other houses, lots of buttered toast and vanilla aromas with a slightly smoky citrus note, full flavoured and soft on the palate with good persistent mousse.
After a year like 2020 you might want to splash out and banish it properly. This is the latest release of DP but you should still find the more saline and citrus focused 2008 around (try Bubble Brothers). Citrus, honeysuckle and tropical aromas, creamy fruit balanced by lemon curd and citrus freshness — lingering stony mineral notes with lemon zest and pineapple.
If every island in Scotland can have a distillery it makes perfect sense that beautiful Oileán Chléire should too. Watch also for its inclusion in the Coast Road Atlantic Gin pack alongside Micil from Connemara, Dúlamán from Mayo and Skellig Six18 from Cahirsiveen.
3 Sq Miles Gin contains the usual botanicals of Juniper, Citrus and Spice but also local kelp and fuschia flowers to evoke its island home. Aromas of juniper and citrus hit the nose first with floral and spice in the background — creamy smooth on the palate with spice and salt ‘n' pepper ozone and honeysuckle notes. A perfect debut.
