Wine with Leslie: Burgundy bargains and wines that show off their regional terroir
Vineyards in the autumn season in Burgundy, France
You don’t need to be told that much can change in a year. This time last year I was writing about my once in a lifetime trip to the Hospice-de-Beaune Auction where barrels of wine are auctioned to raise money for the local hospital foundation.Â
Over several generations tracts of some of the most famed vineyards in the world have been donated to the Hospice and prior to the auction I got to taste my way through each barrel.
Even in their very youthful state it was completely fascinating to taste the wines from Pommard beside the wines from its neighbouring village of Volnay. Volnay is lighter and more fragrant with an ethereal elegance while Pommard is always firmer and denser thanks to the iron rich soils and slightly different aspect. Similarly tasting a rounded, open, juicy Chambolle Musigny beside a dense firmer Chambertin and then an elegant exquisite Echezeaux can rather blow the mind.
It is all about the Terroir. The grapes grown, the soil structure, the elevation, the shelter and the micro-climate of a wine region all play a role. Terroir also includes the people and how they farm the land and so it also includes local traditions. 2020 has been a very difficult year for the world but one small benefit that has come out of the trauma is that it has made all of us look to the local - we were often forced to given the 5km lockdown rules.
There is a measure of serendipity that this focus on the local found its apogee with the release of several whiskies by Waterford Distillery made from barley grown on specific farms throughout Ireland. This was a genius idea and although I was sceptical initially given that barley kernels are rather less flavourful than grapes. Waterford’s distillers have found a way to coax as much flavour from the barley they use as possible, through temperature-controlled slow malting and slower distillations, and you really can notice the difference.
My selections this week include a couple of Burgundy bargains from winesoftheworld.ie - bear in mind the term ‘bargain’ is relative when it comes to Burgundy - plus some other wines that show off their regional terroir. The granite soils and Atlantic ocean makes Albariño from Rias Baixas distinct, the clones of Malbec and the high Andean foothills of the Uco make a completely different wine to anything in Malbec's home of Cahors and Rioja - it just always tastes of Rioja.
Dunnes Stores
The Uco Valley is part of the larger Mendoza wine region although it is an hour south of the city and could be considered a region itself given its size and the number of altitude vineyards in the Andean foothills. This is packed with dense juicy fruits, strawberry and plum on the palate and admirable density and purity for the price.
JJ O'Driscolls Ballinlough, Molloys Liquor Stores, Widely available.
The rolling hills of Rioja make this one of the most beautiful wine regions in Spain and currently the different Climat are being mapped so expect to see (almost) Burgundy levels of detail in the coming years. This couldn’t be anything other than Rioja Crianza with aromas of plums, red and black spicy fruits and a touch of cedar from the oak. Classic.
Dunnes Stores Nationwide
Terroir can be applied everywhere and Albariño from Rias Baixas is a perfect example. The Atlantic coastal location means a thick skinned grape is needed and the salty air can often be detected in the wines. The O Rosal sub region is further south so this has lower acidity but more soft white peaches and weighty, rounded pear and melon flavours.
Wines of the World - www.winesoftheworld.ie
WinesOfTheWorld.ie (run by Barry Fitzwilliam) have offers on all their Dom. Faiveley wines including a mixed Burgundy case for €224 (reduced from €330). Mercurey is in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the Côte Dôr and is always good value. Brick red colour, soft cherry fruit aromas, rounded and supple with earthy herbal notes and lingering chewy red fruits. Excellent value.
Wines of the World - www.winesoftheworld.ie
It isn’t often you get to taste 20 year old Burgundy at this price. The Côte de Nuits village of Chambolle-Musigny is famed for its perfumed rather voluptuous wines. Aromas of leather and spice mixed with dark cherries - darker fruits than expected on the palate given its age, absolutely holding its own with savoury cooked cherry fruits on the finish with hints of orange peel.
Dunnes Stores
This is from the best Premier Cru vineyard in the village of Nuits Saint Georges in the Côtes de Nuits (which takes its name from the town) - Hugh Johnson even argues that the ‘Les Saint Georges’ climat deserves elevation to Grand Cru. The forest floor and red fruit aromas sing from the glass here and on the palate are pristine lithe strawberry fruits and gorgeous lingering crunchy elegance.
Bradleys, Matsons, Celtic Whiskey Dublin & Killarney, Fine Wines, O’Briens, irishmalts.com
Waterford Distillery opened in 2016 and made Terroir their raison d’être. This year they released several fascinating batches based on barley from specific farms - all sold out within hours although I believe the excellent ‘Ratheaden 1.2’ is still available.
Gaia is Ireland’s first Organic whiskey from six growers and it is remarkably tasty despite its youth - thanks to quality barley, a long ferment and distillation, and very careful oak selection I’m told. Aromas of barley straight form the mash tun, honeysuckle, chestnut honey and hazelnuts, sweet on the palate with spice, honey and marzipan, a long prickly finish with banana bread and honey flavours lingering longest. A triumph.
