Michelle Darmody: Tahini and sesame seeds in baking — including perfectly 'squishy' brownies

"The oil made from crushed sesame seeds is a particularly popular ingredient in Asian cooking and can be used as a back note to a salad dressing."

Sat, 26 Sep, 2020 - 08:00

Michelle Darmody

The sweetest of treats from our queen of cakes

Sesame seeds have a nutty delicate flavour which intensifies once they are roasted or baked. They have been cultivated in tropical regions throughout the world since prehistoric times — the edible seeds, which grow in pods were the first crop used to make a cooking-oil. The seeds are thought to have first originated in India and are mentioned in early Hindu legends. 'Open sesame' — the famous phrase from the Arabian Nights — relates to a distinguishing feature of the sesame pod, which bursts open with a pop when it reaches maturity.

The oil made from crushed sesame seeds is a particularly popular ingredient in Asian cooking and can be used as a back note to a salad dressing. The seeds themselves add crunch to both savoury and sweet cooking. Sesame seeds come in a variety of different colours which have varying tastes: black, white, or the most popular seeds which have a slight golden hue.

Tahini is made by grinding the seeds into a smooth paste. The addition of a lightly-flavoured oil can help to form a looser texture and give a more satisfying end result. To make tahini you blend toasted sesame seeds with the oil until completely smooth. I usually use about 150g of seeds to about 2 tablespoons of a light sesame oil. Hummus is a very popular use for tahini, it is one of the key ingredients in the chickpea spread, but it is also great mixed with some honey and spread on toast.

Sesame cookies (pictured above)

170g soft butter
90g golden caster sugar
3 tbs honey
195g tahini
275g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder, sieved
1/2 tsp fine sea salt, sieved
30g sesame seeds

Preheat your oven to 170 degrees and line two large flat baking trays with parchment.

Beat the butter, sugar and honey until pale and fluffy.

Mix the flour, baking powder and salt until well combined.

Add half of the flour mixture to the butter mixture and combine but do not over beat. Add the rest of the flour until that too is combined.

Scoop a generous soupspoon of the mixture into your hand and quickly roll it between your palms, then place it onto the tray. Do this until you have about 24 cookies. Sprinkle sesame seeds over each one and then press the dough down slightly so the seeds press into the dough and you flatten the cookie slightly.

Bake for approximately 12 minutes until golden. Once cool enough to handle transfer them onto a wire rack to cool completely.

Tahini and date squares

130g tahini
225 dates, destoned and finely chopped
1/2 tsp ground cardamon
a generous pinch of sea salt
2 tbs coconut oil
2 tsp black sesame seeds

Line a 6-inch square tin with parchment.

Place the tahini, chopped dates, cardamon, salt and coconut oil into a blender and blitz until a smooth paste is formed.

Scoop the mixture into the prepared tin and smooth it out. Sprinkle with the black sesame seeds. Place into the fridge until completely cooled. Slice into small squares.