Paris menswear season ends with an ode to the 80s

Paris menswear shows reached a colourful 1980s-infused climax yesterday, the last day in the spring-summer 2016 collections that saw the City of Light glistening in a summer heat wave.

Paris menswear season ends with an ode to the 80s

NBA star Amar’e Stoudemire continued his whistle stop tour of Paris Fashion Week, arriving at Lanvin with his wife for the Sunday morning show.

In the collection, co-designers Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz continued their recent flirtations with the 80s, offering up a varied collection, dominated by neutral colours.

The show’s opening statement — an oversize pale grey polo shirt with a model with slicked-back hair — set the clock firmly back to the era of exaggerated volume and form.

More 80s references abounded — such as a huge, voluminous blue suit, with big round shoulders, turned up sleeves, and high-waisted pants — and white patent and punk-looking boots.

Elsewhere, a turned-up collar on a stylish pea coat cut a graphic silhouette, especially with the floodlit lighting inside Paris’ storied Left Bank Ecole des Beaux Arts.

In other looks, there were flashes of detail, embellishment and layering — tassels flapping down from long jerkins, necklaces, hoops on belts, and neck scarves.

The collection packed no great surprises, but was consistently stylish. It was an eclectic mix of styles in Agnes B’s creative pot. A sober start of black-and-white suit and shirt styles was followed by white jeans and a snug-looking denim jumpsuit that the Parisian designer, bien sur, twinned with a Left Bank-standard foulard.

But there was a welcome flash of madness.

Two psychedelic, multi-coloured hoodies burst onto the catwalk midway through, with one nicely evoking the decorative swirls of Austrian artist Gustav Klimt. And the psychedelic was repeated in a pair of flower power shirts.

The colour chapter also produced the show’s most on-trend moments — with citrus yellow (one of the main colours of the season) appearing on turned-up pants and a shirt. But the creative madness ended here.

Paul Smith is perhaps the menswear designer most closely associated with bold colour.

Yesterday’s show proved why, with the British designer cleverly borrowing from the trend for the 80s by reviving that decade’s often-overlooked penchant for vivid hues on exaggerated jackets and pants.

The first clue to this mission was an oversize burnt orange jacket with angular shoulders — that hung loosely down to mid-thigh. It was masterfully contrasted with a subtle vermilion in the shirt and high eighties pants. The most eye-catching of the colourful looks were some on-trend citrus yellow pants; a hue that flashed back later in boots, a shirt, and a sweater.

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