Cork: Castles, sea views offer fine backdrops

Rossbrin and Stouke, West Cork

WE set off from Rossbrin Quay, with the ruined tower of the O’Mahony castle on the opposite headland. This rectangular tower was reputedly built in 1310, but the surviving remains are of 15th or 16th century origin. We make our way east along the water (i.e. facing the sea, we go left).

At the eastern end of the bay side road, we come to a pebble beach with a small, gurgling stream pouring from under the honeysuckle on the ditch behind us.

We continue on the road, leaving the sea and then take the first road left — grass grows down the centre. The climb, for a few hundred yards, is quite steep. Behind us are marvellous views of Rossbrin Castle, and Castle Island behind it.

Near the top of this stretch we are afforded a magnificent view of Baltimore Harbour to the east, with the white beacon opposite Sherkin Pier shining in the sun. We are on a small back road, now, a dusty boreen. A road merges, from the right. We top a low rise and, as we pass a ‘cross-roads’ (the track left leads to a farm) we start to descend, heading towards the rolling hills in the distance.

We shortly come to a 4-cross roads, and go straight through, taking the small road going northwest, keeping to the higher land. On the left, we immediately pass a notably large rock in a field, with ivy growing up it from a single, thick stem and splaying out, like a one-dimensional tree.

As this quiet road climbs higher, we have a wonderful view of Mount Gabriel, the twin “golf balls” of the communications stations on top.

The road rises, at times as if making straight for Mount Gabriel, four miles away. Reaching a ‘summit’, it starts downhill. Shortly, we find the Burial Ground on our right. Inside are old graves, especially towards the back, many of them unmarked.

Leaving the graveyard, we continue on our route, ignoring a driveway going left a farm. 0.5km along, we reach a T-junction, (apex of the ‘A’ on the map) and take the sharp left, making south, for the sea. The road ascends briefly, and veers right at a ‘staggered’ cross roads, then left, still climbing, just afterwards.

On this stretch we come out on breathtaking views over Horse Island, then Castle Island, with its castle down by the water.

The road descends steeply, through a 4-crossroads. The O’Mahony castle is straight ahead. Our route hairpins around to the right and one cannot but be arrested by the view. On nearby Horse Island, we can clearly see the pier and old grey houses blending perfectly into the landscape. Beyond, are the ‘outer islands’, and beyond them, the great bulk of Oileán Cléire, Cape Clear Island.

The lane we walk is leafy and pleasant. Shortly, we come to a ‘Road Narrows’ sign, and a sign indicating a snaking piece of road. Now, back at sea level, we round a stone wall and go left between two quaint old buildings, one on either side of the road.

From here, the quay where we began is just a few minutes along the waterside. It is always tempting to linger awhile on the pier before leaving. Rossbrin is a hard spot to leave.

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