One to turn heads in seventh heaven
FROM Narry’s Cross, we look across a broad, green landscape dotted with scattered farms. We set off downhill on this section of the waymarked Seven Heads Walk. We can see our route, straight ahead, downhill towards the open Atlantic, two miles away.
The fields are rich and rolling. Close to the sea it was once Poor Law land. Old ruins and stone-walled fields attest the then bitter struggle for mere subsistence. Times have changed. Land is ‘improved’ mechanically by the ‘strong’ Barryroe farmers, but nature still rules. The stunted “sceacs” (blackthorns) grow like bonsai out of the low stone walls, sculpted by the south-westerlies sweeping in from the coast in winter storms.
A “Y” in the road. The left leg plunges to a cove; the right continues our route, suddenly towards the sky. The ‘summit’ track commands 360º views, eastward, Courtmacsherry Bay and the faraway cliffs of the Old Head of Kinsale, westward Clonakilty Bay and Galley Head, two miles north, Butlerstown, its single street of multicoloured houses facing us, and southward the broad Atlantic. Our route now leads seaward along the straight, paved road between Connemara-style stone walls, dividing rolling fields. At the end, we reach the ruins of Shanagh, a handful of stone houses. Until the Tiger years, they were abandoned — all but one — and never knew paint or plaster.
The name derives from seantóir, a sanctuarium, a church; an ancient burial ground lies close by.
During the Famine of 1845-48, one third of Shanagh’s population died. Others dragged their starving bodies 10 miles “to Clonakilty, God help us!” (a saying, at the time). If they found no room in the workhouse, they and many others, died in streets outside.
We take the track leaving the village between the ruins to the right, the surviving section of a “Famine road” leading to Coostravarra (Travara Cove), a “public works” project set up in 1847 to provide Famine relief in return for work, thus to obviate outright charity and the perceived ills that would attend. The road leads through stone-walled fields towards the sea and may be muddy in winter. To the right, we see a Signal Tower (1804- 06) atop which a fire visible from the towers eastward at the Old Head, and westward, at Galley Head, could be lit if a French invading fleet was sighted.
We follow field edges to the small, pebbly beach. In 1925, a large vessel, The Cardiff Hall, bringing maize from Argentina to Cork, ran aground off Travara, with the loss of all 27 aboard. Vast quantities of ‘yellow meal’ were washed ashore. People came from all over west Cork to collect it.
Ascending the track from the cove, we reach the road that leads straight for pretty Butlerstown. In a field to the left, is a well preserved ancient ring fort; seven lie between Shanagh and Dunworley. We go through Carrigeen Cross Roads, our route visible ahead.
At Butlerstown, we turn immediately right, passing the community hall on the last half mile back to Narry’s Cross and the car. O’Neill’s pub in Butlerstown village affords a fine welcome for the thirsty walkers, its cosy interior little changed in half a century. On summer evenings, one can almost hear the motes of dust falling in the sunlight. Or in winter, the coals stirring in the fire.
(clonakiltywalking.com)
Oct 6: Barley Lake, Grade B, meet O’Donovan’s Hotel 8.30am, Jim’s Cafe, Glengarriff 9.30am. Also, many festivals this week with not enough space to give details. Download info/brochures from websites or telephone.
(eastclarewalkingfestival.com) Oct 4-5-6: Graded walks with guides from East Clare Walking Club. Features Holy Island boat and walk. Sunday Family walks. Base: Mountshannon Hotel, Mountshannon.
. foxfordwalkingfestival.com Oct 5-6: 3 walks each day incl. Moy valley, Ox Mountain Spur, Larganmore Loop and parts of 86km Foxford Way.
Oct. 4-5-6. Dunfanaghy, Co Donegal, 4th. Annual Big Ramble Festival narosalife.com Big variety of walks, mountain treks, forests, coasts. All grades. Céilí etc.
(Ainsley McWilliams 028 2826 0088)
Oct 5-6: Easy, moderate and challenging walks amid magnificent scenery of Antrim Hills. Base: Carnfunnock Country Park.
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