Michael Moynihan: The tradition of spiced beef in Cork goes a long way back

Tom Durcan holds spiced beef in the English Market, Cork. Picture: Denis Minihane.
If you have lived somewhere in Ireland beyond the borders of Cork then you will be familiar with a Christmastime sidle, a stealthy approach which occurs at roughly the same point in December every year.
Whether soi-disant sophisticate or avowed Neanderthal, all outlanders are fascinated with one of Cork’s long-standing Christmas traditions. Eventually their curiosity gets the better of them, and they just can’t hold out any longer.