Darina Allen: My trip to Chicago
I was warmly welcomed by the hospitable Irish Chicagons. I also managed to check out the food, urban farm and gardening scene.
On the very first evening I had a delicious dinner at The Gage (right) , a sister restaurant of Acanto both owned by the Lawless family (now Chicago restaurant ‘royalty’) originally from Rahoon in Co Galway.
Charismatic Irish restaurateur, Ferdia Doherty gave me a glowing introduction. His Farmhouse Tavern is the quintessential ‘farm to table’ restaurant and he is justifiably proud of his sustainable sourcing, all produce coming from the four surrounding states, Indiana, Missouri, Iowa and Wisconsin.
Local sourcing has, of course, been gaining momentum for over a decade but it has reached its pinnacle. Every chef I talked to waxed lyrical about creating ‘farmer friendships’.
The Lincoln Park Market on Saturday morning is not to be missed, packed with Autumn produce, freshly pressed apple cider, wild mushrooms, handmade cheese and charcuterie; I loved Underground Meats from Madison. There in the midst of it all, was Jared Batson, a past 12-week student turning out the most delicious sourdough pizza from this mobile wood-burning oven. He also makes woodfired omelettes and scrambled eggs.
Not surprisingly there was an interminable queue. His pizza toppings reflect what’s in season and on the surrounding market stalls. I tasted also a couple of his house-made sodas.
I particularly loved a pizza with tomato n’duja and soppresatta with Hungarian wax chilli, with drizzled Serrano honey. Another with watercress pesto, black walnut, bacon lardons, mozzarella and shaved fresh apple slices was equally delicious. People sat around in the park with children listening to drumming.
I was also intrigued by a brilliant initiative called Little Sprouts, aimed at the children who come to the market with their parents. Each week they have a new vegetable for them to taste. Kale, romanesco, carrot, spinach… the kids love the fun and get credit for being ‘super tasters’.
There are colouring books, little prizes and competitions, as they learn about the seasons. Invariably the child meets the farmer and asks the parents to buy the vegetables – a neat idea that could become part of all our farmers market over here. People on food stamps are also able to get double value when they spend them at the Farmers’ Market, another terrific idea.
Like so many restaurants nowadays, Girl and the Goat concentrates on small dishes to share, the cool waiters wore black t-shirts with punchy one-liners: Goat You!; What happens at the Goat stays at the Goat!
Dinner starts early in Chicago, by 4.35 the restaurant was packed. Stephaniezard’s food Igard’s is multi ethnic but she loves goat and ‘pig’s face’. There’s now a Little Goat Diner - a chef to watch.
I also loved Abraham Conlon’s Macan/Portuguese food at Fat Rice on West Diversey Avenue. We had a memorable brunch at Dove’s Luncheonette on Damen Avenue – oyster omelette with tomato confit and chihuahua cheese with a Texas toast (big toast) ½-1 inch thick!
For those more obsessed by architecture than food, Chicago is a fantastic city, don’t miss the river architecture tour with a running commentary on the awe inspiring ‘skyscrapers’ – some of the country’s most iconic buildings, Mies van der Rohe, Frank Lloyd Wright, Daniel Burnham, Louis Sullivan and Frank Gehry.
Make time to wander through Millennium Park to see The Bean, the Cloud Gate and Lurie Garden. And certainly don’t miss the Chicago Art Museum – voted the best in the US and deservedly so, then there’s the urban farms and gardens, the brilliant new Local Foods Store and Will Allen’s food revolution at Growing Power.The worst thing about Chicago is having to tear yourself away - to be continued…
Another gem of a recipe from Mary Jo McMillan’s table – her son David’s favourite cookie recipe and may well be your soon. I even brought some home in my picnic on the plane.
Cream the butter and sugar together. Beat in egg and gradually beat in water.
Sieve the flour, salt and baking soda together. Stir into the creamed mixture with the wheatgerm, add the oats, chocolate chips, raisins and nuts.
For large cookies scoop dough with 2-oz. ice-cream dipper, and place 8 cookies on 8-by-14-inch lightly greased or greased parchment-lined baking sheet. For baby David’s, drop cookies by teaspoon. Using a fork dipped in water, flatten cookies to 1/2-inch thickness. Large cookies should be at least 3 inches across.
Bake in preheated 180C/350F/gas mark 4 oven until golden. Large cookies will take 12-15 minutes and small cookies will bake in 10-12 minutes. Watch carefully, since honey causes cookies to darken quickly. Cool slightly before removing to wire racks. Layer with waxed paper for storage.
This recipe is from the Farmhouse Restaurant in Chicago – put this name on your Chicago list
Serves Four
Prepare all raw ingredients and combine together in a large mixing bowl. Toss with the apple cider vinaigrette and garnish with the fresh made kale chips. Enjoy!
(Yield Approximately 1 Cup)
Combine all ingredients except for the olive oil. Whisk in olive oil slowly to emulsify. Season to taste. Enjoy!
My friend Mary Jo cooked up a luncheon feast during my recent visit to Chicago including this delicious and unusual dessert made from ripe tomatoes.
Line a lightly buttered round 23 cm/9-inch cake pan with parchment.
Preheat oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4
Melt the butter and brown sugar in saucepan. Pour into prepared cake pan spreading evenly.
Arrange the tomato slices snugly in a single layer over the firm sugar base, filling in gaps if necessary.
Spread a thin layer of tomato jam over slices.
Sieve the flour, salt and baking powder. Cream the butter and sugar until fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time beating well after each. Add the vanilla extract. Blend in the sieved dry ingredients; add a little milk if needed.
Dollop the batter around prepared pan and spread evenly over tomatoes. Bake for 30-35 minutes or until firm in the centre. Remove the cake from oven and cool for 10 minutes. Loosen edges and reverse cake, unmolding onto a plate while still warm. Remove the parchment and carefully spread a glazing layer of remaining tomato jam over tomatoes. Serve warm or at room temperature with whipped cream.
Makes 300 ml/½ pint jar
Put all ingredients into a stainless steel saucepan, cook quickly to a thick jam. Sieve to remove seeds.
Pop-up dinner at the Ballymaloe Cookery School: Jared Batson, from Nomad in Chicago, will host a pop-up dinner on November 14, to support the East Cork Slow Food Educational Project. There will be an peritif, delicious nibbles and a three-course dinner. Tickets €50 for non Slow Food members and €45 for Slow Food members. slowfoodeastcork@gmail.com for bookings.
Join us in the Ballymaloe Grainstore on Thursday, November 12, at 7.30pm for a Riedel comparative wine tasting event with Maximilian Riedel, an eleventh generation Riedel glass-making family, for his first ever event to be held outside of Dublin. http://www.ballymaloegrainstore.com/portfolio/riedel-glass-comparative-wine-tasting-event.
Discovering Tapas is a half day course at the Ballymaloe Cookery School on Wednesday November 18t In one afternoon we have chosen our favourite tapas – classic tortilla a la patata, pata negra, salt cod bunuelos with aioli, pimento de pardon, bunuelos con chrozio y queso and garbanzada to name a few. Light lunch included. www.cookingisfun.ie for further information.
Belfast is buzzing, the artisan food scene is burgeoning. Check out Establish in Hill St, cool and arty with super delicious food, good ethics and great coffee. I loved the homemade baked beans, Pheasant Hill sausages on Veda Toast. The latter came from Zac’s Bakehouse artisan baker — one to watch.
www.facebook.com/establishedcoffee
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