Fruit bats were fruits of our labours
It was their sheer size and bird-like flight that made us pause, jaw-dropped, on the bridge of the Singhalese town of Tangalle, and look up at them, black against the cobalt sky, passing over the palm trees and the busy street of tiny, lit-up hucksters’ shops and tuk-tuks, trucks and buses. All leisurely and in orderly files, they passed.
We had arrived in Tangalle, on the southern coast, that afternoon after a short bus ride (3.5hrs; fare €1) from Ella, the highest village in Sri Lanka. The bus was packed, but the fare-collector kindly directed my wife to a platform raised a few inches off the floor, where she duly sat, and the driver invited me to sit on the engine cowling beside him. While this was not uncomfortable — it had a ‘quilted’ plastic covering and a rag-rug on top — after an hour I regretted not having taken the yoga classes on offer at home in west Cork.