Simply the zest
I love making marmalade. I love the smell that permeates through the whole house and the way it steams up the kitchen windows and the smug feeling of delicious satisfaction when you survey the result of your hard work — jars and jars with thick peel glistening through the glass. I even love the chopping and slicing that many find laborious. For me it’s therapeutic, where I can just effortlessly slice and dream for as long as it takes to do the job.
A sharp knife is definitely a bonus otherwise it does become tedious. One could just chuck the peel into a food processor and press the pulse button — it’s faster of course but I’m not keen on the sludgy texture that method produces.
Marmalade aficionados take this very seriously — after all, it can ruin your day if the morning toast and marmalade are not just right, so I know it will resonate with lots of people.
Favourite recipes have been passed down in families for generations. Some of us love dark bitter marmalade, others prefer a fresher fruitier preserve.
I came across this recipe for Kumquat marmalade in Sydney. Kumquats are far less expensive in Australia but it is so worth making at least one batch. Of course, it’s gorgeous on hot buttered toast but it’s also terrific with goat’s cheese and rocket on crostini as a little nibble or a starter. Add a couple of tablespoons into a duck gravy with a squeeze or two of lemon juice to make a cheat’s orange sauce.
Some people like to add a little fresh ginger or whiskey to their marmalade and very good it is too. It also has an extra cachet if you want to sell some at your local farmer’s market.
For those who enjoy more of a ‘little chip’ marmalade, simply slice the peel into the finest julienne you can manage.
MOST recipes require you to slice the orange peel first, but with this one you boil them whole and then slice the cooked peel later. With any marmalade it is vital that the original liquid has reduced by half or, better still, two-thirds before the sugar is added; otherwise it takes ages to reach a set and both the flavour and colour will be spoiled.
A wide, low-sided stainless-steel saucepan is best for this recipe, about 35.5cm (14 inches) deep and 40.5cm (16 inches) in diameter. If you don’t have one that big, then cook the marmalade in two batches.
Makes about 5.8–6.75kg (13–15lb)
2.25kg (4½lb) Seville or Malaga oranges (organic if possible)
4kg (9lb) sugar, warmed
Wash the oranges and put them in a stainless-steel saucepan with 5.2 litres (9 pints) of water. Put a plate on top of the oranges to keep them under the surface of the water. Cover the saucepan, then simmer gently until the oranges are soft, about two hours. Cool and drain, reserving the water. If more convenient, leave overnight and continue next day. Put a chopping board onto a large baking tray with sides so you won’t lose any juice. Then cut the oranges in half and scoop out the soft centre. Slice the peel finely and put the pips into a muslin bag.
Put the escaped juice, sliced oranges and the muslin bag of pips into a large, wide stainless-steel saucepan with the reserved cooking liquid. Bring to the boil, reduce by half or, better still, two-thirds. Add the warmed sugar and stir over a brisk heat until dissolved. Boil fast until setting point is reached. Pot in sterilised jars and cover immediately. Store in a dark, airy cupboard.
Variations
Ginger Marmalade: Add 175–225g (6–8oz) of peeled, finely chopped fresh ginger to the recipe. You may also like to substitute Demerara sugar for a fuller flavour and darker colour.
Whiskey Marmalade: You can vary the flavour of marmalade by adding spices, whiskey or liqueurs. For whiskey marmalade, add six tablespoons of Irish whiskey or your favourite single malt.
HERE is a great way to show off your homemade marmalade. Remove this ice cream from the freezer at least 10 minutes before serving.
Serves 12–16
Ballymaloe vanilla ice cream
Zest of 2 organic oranges
4 tbsp Seville whole orange marmalade
For the sauce:
Half a pot (185g/6¼oz) Seville whole orange marmalade
Juice of 1 orange
Make the Ballymaloe vanilla ice cream, adding in the orange zest to the mousse, and then folding the softly whipped cream into it. Pour into a bowl, cover and freeze.
When the ice cream is semi-frozen, remove it from the freezer. Chop the marmalade peel into 5mm (¼in) pieces and fold with the rest of the marmalade into the ice cream. Cover and freeze. Serve with a little sauce made by thinning the marmalade with orange juice.
Makes 10 x 200ml (7fl oz) jars
Juice and coarsely grated zest of eight organic limes
2kg (4lb 8oz) sugar, warmed
Put the lime zest and juice into a stainless-steel saucepan. Tie everything that remains into a muslin bag and add to the saucepan with three litres (5¼ pints) of water. Bring to the boil and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Remove from the heat. When cool enough to handle, take the muslin bag out.
Place the remaining mixture in a food processor and whizz until smooth. Add back to the saucepan, bring to the boil and add the warmed sugar. Stir to dissolve. Bring back to the boil and cook until set, about 10–15 minutes.
Pour into sterilised jars and seal immediately. Store in a cool, dry place.
How to heat the sugar: Heat the sugar in a stainless steel bowl in a moderate oven for about 15 minutes. It should feel hot to the touch.
Be careful not to leave it in too long or the sugar will begin to melt around the edges of the bowl and will eventually caramelise.
Why heat the sugar? The faster jam is made, the fresher and more delicious it tastes. If you add cold sugar to jam, it will take longer to return to the boil and will taste less fresh.
Kumquats are expensive and fiddly to slice, but this is so worth making. I was given this recipe by an Australian friend called Kate Engel.
Makes 3 x 370g (13oz) pots
1kg (2¼lb) kumquats
1.8kg (4lb) sugar, warmed
Slice the kumquats thinly crossways. Put the seeds into a small bowl with 225ml (8fl oz) of water and leave overnight.
Put the kumquats in a larger bowl with 1.5 litres (2.5 pints) of water, cover and also leave overnight.
Next day, strain the seeds and reserve the liquid (this now contains the precious pectin, which contributes to the setting of the jam).
Discard the seeds.
Put the kumquat mixture into a large saucepan with the reserved liquid from the seeds.
Bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes or until the kumquats are very tender.
Remove the lid and reduce to about half the original volume.
Add the warmed sugar and stir until it is fully dissolved. Bring the mixture back to the boil and cook rapidly with the lid off for about 15 minutes.
Remove the pan from the heat while testing for a set by putting a teaspoon of the mixture on a cold saucer (it should barely wrinkle when pressed with a finger).
Pour into sterilised jars. Cover, seal and store in a cool, dry place.
THIS is a variation on basic bread and butter pudding. If you like, leave out the marmalade and serve plain, or add chopped rhubarb, chopped chocolate, grated lemon or orange zest, raisins, sultanas, cinnamon, nutmeg etc. This is a great way to use up stale bread, and in fact is better if the bread is stale.
Serves 6-8
12 slices of good quality white bread, crusts removed
50g (2ozs) soft butter
3-4 tbsp marmalade
450ml (16fl ozs) cream
225ml (8fl.oz) milk
4 eggs 150g (5½ oz) caster sugar
2 tbsp granulated sugar
To Serve:
Softly whipped cream
Marmalade sauce
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas 4. Butter the bread and spread marmalade on each slice.
Arrange the bread butter side down in the gratin dish or in individual cups or bowls (cut the slices if you need to). I like to have overlapping triangles of bread on the top layer.
Place the cream and milk in a saucepan and bring to just under the boil. While it’s heating up, in a separate bowl whisk the eggs and the caster sugar, then pour the hot milk and cream in with the eggs and whisk to combine. Pour this custard over the bread and leave it to soak for 10 minutes. Sprinkle the granulated sugar on top. Place in a bain marie (water bath) and cook in the preheated oven for one hour. The top should be golden and the centre should be just set. Serve with softly whipped cream and marmalade sauce (see below).
Note: If you want to make this a day ahead of time, don’t heat up the milk and cream, just pour it cold over the bread.
Marmalade Sauce:
1 jar (400-450g/14ozs –1lb) 3 fruit or homemade marmalade
60ml (2½ fl ozs) water
Juice of ½ – 1 lemon
Put the marmalade into a saucepan. Add the water and the juice of ½– 1 lemon to taste. Heat all the ingredients gently. Place in a jug and serve with the bread and butter pudding.
Serves 4-6
4 eggs free-range and organic if possible
225 ml (8fl oz) full cream milk
2 tbsp sugar
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
12 slices, best quality white yeast bread, ¾ inch thick
Sunflower oil or clarified butter
Marmalade butter:
110g (4oz) butter softened slightly
2-3 tbsp citrus marmalade, chopped
Icing sugar in a dredger
First make the marmalade butter.
Cream the butter and beat in the chopped marmalade. Transfer to a serving bowl. Whisk the eggs well in a bowl with the milk, sugar and vanilla. Cut the bread into rectangular pieces and soak the bread fingers in batches until they are well saturated but not falling apart.
Heat a large, preferably non-stick pan over medium heat, add a little oil or clarified butter. Cook the soaked bread fingers, turning, until golden brown, about one minute per side. Serve immediately, or keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.
Transfer the French toast to a hot plate, dredge over a little icing sugar and serve with marmalade butter.
- The Catex Catering Exhibition is on again at the RDS in Dublin from Tuesday, February 8 until Thursday, February 10. It will feature over 200 exhibitors of equipment, food and beverages disposables, and services.
To see the schedule of events check www.catexexhibition.com
- Congratulations to Michael Quinn — past Ballymaloe Cookery School student, now Head Chef of Waterford Castle — who won Just Ask Restaurant of Month Award in December 2010. Michael is renowned for using local produce on his menu and he was delighted with the recognition.
“The award is about the fantastic artisan producers I work with at the castle. Without these people, chefs like me would find it difficult to succeed. Now is the time to support our own local producers instead of sending our money abroad. We need to think and buy local.” Waterford Castle — Phone: 051 878203
- What could be nicer than a ready supply of beautiful, fresh, free range, organic eggs, or a delicious, plump, succulent free range, organic chicken for the pot?
Darina Allen will show you how to keep chickens in the garden at Ballymaloe Cookery School on Saturday, March 5, from 9.30am to 5pm; www.cookingisfun.ie 021 4646785.
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