Sowing the right seeds

A NEW batch of students have just arrived from far and wide to start the January 12 week cooking course.

There are eight nationalities, some Irish and British of course, but also American, Dutch, Swedish, German, and two girls from India.

On the first morning we walk through the farm and sleepy winter gardens and I introduce them to our gardeners and farm manager and remind them that these are the real food heroes who to produce the wonderful produce they will be fortunate enough to cook with over the next three months.

Then we show them how to sow a seed and give each one of the students a seedling which they plant into the soil in the greenhouse. This time it was coriander, which should be ready to use in about six weeks. I know no better way to give students a respect for food and those who produce it than to show them how to sow a seed.

As they watch it grow the excitement and anticipation mounts so they are much more likely to respect it when it gets into the kitchen.

In an era when the cheapness of food is a major issue and farmers and food producers are being squeezed more and more, I thought Cork vegetable grower Trevor Martin’s (son of Declan Martin of Waterfall Farm in Cork) answer to Ella McSweeney on Ear to the Ground on RTE1 recently hit the nail on the head. When asked by Ella “what would you say to those who think vegetables could be cheaper?” he replied, “people don’t realise there is a lot of expenditure and work that goes on behind the scenes, they should try growing some vegetables themselves and see.”

Fortunately more and more people are discovering the reality of what’s involved, but also the thrill of growing your own, even if it’s only a fresh few herbs or salad leaves.

More and more chefs are getting in on the act; they too know how vital really good produce is when trying to create the ‘wow factor’ on the plate. Here in Ireland chefs like Paul Flynn of the Tannery in Dungarvan are leading the way and, of course, Myrtle Allen of Ballymaloe House has incorporated produce from the walled garden and greenhouses into the menu ever since it opened 46 years ago.

On a recent trip to New Zealand. I discovered that the big buzz down under is about the new breed of gardener-chefs who have discovered that a kitchen garden makes sound sense for a restaurant both financially and aesthetically.

Some like Adam Newell of Zibibbo in Wellington got started because he was frustrated by not being able to source the quality and variety of fresh herbs over the winter period and the sheer cost. He understandably wondered how hard could it be to grow his own, so he and his co-owner Anthony Shore invested in a few packets of seeds and now have a ready supply from their own garden and now no longer buy in herbs.

When guests come to Riverstone Kitchen in Oamaru — on the South Island — they can get a preview of the seasonal produce that will feature on the menu as they stroll around the 300 square metre garden before dinner.

Charismatic chef, Jonny Schwass of Restaurant Schwass in Christchurch on the South Island is one of the leaders of the movement. When guests ask where the vegetables come from he can truthfully reply from ‘my garden’. This is his wittily named vegetable patch at West Malton where his two business partners spend over 30 hours a week cultivating 150 different varieties of herbs and vegetables. The result was reflected on the plate — and in the attitude of the staff who were just as excited as Jonny about the project — our dinner was vibrant and delicious.

Both waiters and chefs are involved and visit the garden and help with the harvesting twice a week.