Inis, natural wonderland, lost paradise

INISVICKILLANE, one of the Blasket islands, is generally known for its association with ex-Taoiseach Charlie Haughey who bought it as a holiday retreat.

Over the past 2,000 years it has had many names, including Inis Haughey and Oileán Haughey.

But long before he arrived on its 80 hectares (171 acres), lying nine miles off the Kerry coast, it was famous as a place of pilgrimage, for its nature and environment, folklore, archaeology and music.

People once lived on five of the Blaskets – the Great Blasket, Inisvickillane, Inis Tuaisceart, An Tiaracht and Beginis.

The island with the most inhabitants – up to 200 during World War One – was the Great Blasket, which was eventually abandoned in 1953 following a continuing decline in population.

Next in importance was Inisvickillane, bare but capable of growing reasonably good crops.

It was vacated by the last three members of the O Dálaigh family, in 1903 or 1904.

They moved to the Great Blasket, but still kept sheep on Inisvickillane.

Mr Haughey arrived on the scene in 1973.

It seems he got on well with the three surviving O Dálaigh brothers, Tomás, Paddy and Muiris, and an agreement signed in Dingle, on April 6, 1974, made him owner of the island. He later built a house there and took a keen interest in its natural history and wildlife.

There’s no end to the flow of books about the Blaskets and the latest on Inisvickillane, (which will be published later this month) by the late Mícheál O Dubhshláine, is a worthy addition to an ever-growing library.

The ex-principal of Dunquin national school, was assisted by Mr Haughey in his research. O Dubhshláine, who was battling terminal cancer at the time, was in some discomfort on the day poet Danny Sheehy took him to ‘the Inis’ by boat, in August 2004, less than two years before his death at the age of 64.

It was his first trip and he recalled: “The great Atlantic stretched right over to America. It felt like untouched land and that I was among the privileged few who had set foot on it. The words of Sean Pheats Tom O Céarnaigh of long ago came to mind: ‘The place is full of fairies, night and day’.’’

How anyone could write a 284-page book about an island which is just a mile long and roughly a half mile wide is a mystery in itself. There is, of course, the mystique shared by people about islands, especially those that are unoccupied and the sense of escape from humanity and oneness with nature they offer.

O Dubhshláine notes the island is “the kingdom of the seabirds” which is the reason why people such as film-maker Éamon de Buitléir and artist Maria Simonds-Gooding spent so much time there.

The book also details the basic, daily life of the islanders, drawing on numerous sources, including records left by former islanders and their relatives.

They had a liking for ‘the drop’ and thought highly of seal meat. They would preserve the skin and then sell it on the mainland.

Seal oil was used for light and cures. Every house had a bottle and it was said to be a remedy for arthritis or for an injured hand, or foot.

Other forms of wildlife were also introduced by man.

After he had built his house on the Inis, in 1980, Mr Haughey brought over red deer –a stag and a doe – by helicopter from Killarney National Park.

A few deer were lost to the sea, but the herd has thrived. Inbreeding is a concern, however, and new animals have been introduced from time to time. At present, there are about 100 deer and experts say it is about the maximum it can hold, given the amount of available grazing.

A project to reintroduce the white-tailed sea eagle did not work out.

A pair of eagles, Maedhb and Aillil, were released in 1992. They were welcomed by everybody except the permanent avian residents.

Aillil, the male, was found dead on a beach in Waterville, but, despite being tormented by other birds, Meadhb continued making small flights. For several years, she came and went and there were occasional reports from fishermen who had seen her at sea.

The last sightings were in August 1997. According to O Dubhshláine, the project would have had a much better chance of success had a number of pairs been set free.

In the current eagle reintroduction programme at Killarney National Park, for instance, around 100 birds are being released over a five-year period.

Inisvickillane, by Mícheál O Dubhshláine. (Brandon Books) €19.99.